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Bishkek

Garis Batas 36: Raksasa Asia Tengah

Pintu perbatasan Kazakhstan (AGUSTINUS WIBOWO) Menyeberangi Sungai Chui, melintasi perbatasan alami antara Kyrgyzstan dengan Kazakhstan, saya merasakan pergeseran kehidupan yang luar biasa. Dari kantor perbatasan Kyrgyzstan yang terbuat dari tanker minyak bekas yang sudah berkarat ke kantor perbatasan Kazakhstan memamerkan kecanggihan sebuah negeri yang sedang menikmati kemakmuran. Salju terus mengguyur bumi. Sejauh mata memandang yang tampak hanya langit kelabu. Saya masih teringat tentara perbatasan Kyrgyzstan yang dari tadi memberi isyarat minta disogok, gara-gara visa saya tidak distempel ketika memasuki negeri Kirghiz dari perbatasan Bör Döbö. Baru setelah menunjukkan beberapa surat dari KBRI, tentara penjaga perbatasan yang rakus-rakus itu mengizinkan saya lewat menyeberangi jembatan menuju Kazakhstan.  Bendera biru muda Kazakhstan, berhias matahari kuning yang cerah, berkibar di atas gedung balok putih itu. Prosedur imigrasi Kazakhstan, dibandingkan negara tetangga yang berkantor di bekas tanker minyak, nampak jauh lebih modern dan teratur. Bukan hanya harus mengisi Migration Card yang harus disimpan bersama paspor dan visa selama berada di negara ini, semua orang yang masuk Kazakhstan harus dipotret dulu oleh petugas imigrasi ketika mengecap paspor. Tak lama lagi mungkin Kazakhstan juga akan menyimpan sidik jari dan memindai retina mata. Kazakhstan memang kaya. Dibandingkan dengan negara tetangga Kyrgyzstan yang masih harus bergumul dengan frustrasi para [...]

August 2, 2013 // 0 Comments

Garis Batas 33: Kumis dan Balbal

Negeri bangsa pengembara (AGUSTINUS WIBOWO) Salju mulai mengguyur kota Bishkek, menyulap taman-taman cemara menjadi negeri Sinterklas. Anak-anak Rusia dengan riang membuat manusia salju. Kakek-kakek melintas pelan karena lapisan es yang licin sudah membungkus jalan setapak. Saya hanya bisa tertegun, karena celana jeans yang saya cuci dan jemur di luar sepanjang malam, kini jadi kaku seperti papan tripleks. Musim dingin sudah datang di Kyrgyzstan. Setelah diguyur salju selama dua hari terakhir, matahari mulai menampakkan senyumnya. Kota yang sempat muram, dingin, dan kelabu, seketika menjadi penuh gairah. Selain taman-taman yang dipenuhi para gadis muda yang sibuk berfoto di tengah lapisan salju, menggelincir di atas lapisan es, dan kakek-nenek yang berjalan-jalan menikmati segarnya udara bermandi sinar mentari, TSUM juga penuh sesak oleh pembeli. TSUM adalah department store pusat, mal terbesar milik pemerintah di seluruh negeri. Mal berlantai tiga ini mungkin tidak ada apa-apanya dibandingkan dengan pertokoan di Jakarta, tetapi gedung ini cukup fenomenal di Kyrgyzstan. Mal ini adalah satu-satunya gedung di seluruh negeri yang memiliki eskalator, mungkin sudah ada sejak zaman Soviet. Eskalator tua dengan tangga yang tinggi-tinggi dan bersudut tajam, meluncur perlahan dengan suara berderik, seakan sudah tak kuat lagi membawa para pengunjung. Toko-toko tersebar di semua penjuru, mulai dari studio foto [...]

July 30, 2013 // 0 Comments

Garis Batas 31: Berakhir di Sini

Pusat kota Bishkek (AGUSTINUS WIBOWO) Anak Satina satu-satunya, Maksat, yang dulu selalu menemani ibunya di Toktogul, sekarang sudah jadi mahasiswa tingkat pertama di ibu kota Bishkek. Satina menganjurkan saya untuk mengontak Maksat kalau ke Bishkek nanti. Kebetulan sekali, di malam ketika saya hendak meninggalkan Toktogul, bapak angkat Maksat datang dari Bishkek. Namanya Moken. Kata Satina, orangnya baik sekali. Siapa Toktogulduk, orang Toktogul, yang tak kenal Moken? Sekarang Maksat menumpang gratis di rumah Moken di Bishkek. Belakangan saya tahu bahwa Moken bekerja sebagai supir taksi. Di Kyrgyzstan, seperti halnya Tajikistan, supir taksi termasuk pekerjaan yang menjamin cemerlangnya masa depan. Saya menumpang mobil Moken langsung ke Bishkek. Jalan dari Toktogul ke arah utara melewati gunung-gunung tinggi. Kendaraan umum yang boleh melintas cuma taksi. Bus besar dilarang lewat sini sejak kejadian bus yang mengangkut para pedagang Uyghur dari China terguling dan menewaskan banyak orang, beberapa tahun lalu. Mobil Moken termasuk mewah. Badannya panjang dan kursinya lebar. Saking nyamannya mobil ini, saya ketiduran terus sepanjang perjalanan sampai ke Bishkek. Rumah Moken terletak di perumahan Ala Too di pinggiran kota Bishkek. Maksat, yang masih mengenali saya, sangat terkejut dengan kedatangan saya yang tiba-tiba bersama bapak angkatnya. Maksat langsung menggiring saya ke ruang tamu, menyiapkan makan [...]

July 26, 2013 // 1 Comment

Garis Batas 26: Depresi (1)

Gulsaira (AGUSTINUS WIBOWO) Saya tak sengaja singgah di Karakol. Sebuah ketidaksengajaan yang membuka mata saya terhadap beratnya hidup di sebuah negara bernama Kyrgyzstan. Semula saya berencana pergi ke Toktogul dengan bus dari Osh. Toktogul terletak di tengah-tengah antara Osh dengan Bishkek, ibu kota Kyrgyzstan. Perjalanan jauh sekali, lewat gunung-gunung. Bus sudah berangkat pagi-pagi buta dari Osh, dan saya tidak punya pilihan selain berganti-ganti bus untuk sampai ke Toktogul. Pertama-tama saya harus naik bus dulu ke Jalalabad, dua jam perjalanan, dilanjutkan ke kota bernama Tashkomur, 90 kilometer jauhnya. Tashomur terkenal karena pembangkit listriknya, namun sekarang keadaan di kota ini semakin memburuk seiring dengan ambruknya perekonomian Kyrgyzstan setelah kemerdekaan. Saya sampai di pinggiran Tashkomur ketika hari sudah mulai gelap. Toktogul masih kurang 100 kilometer lagi, dan saya berharap-harap cemas untuk bisa sampai di kota itu sebelum malam. Cukup lama juga saya menunggu bus yang menuju ke utara. Tiba-tiba ada angkot dengan papan nama berhuruf Rusia “Toktogul”. Saya langsung meloncat ke dalam bus itu dan membayar tiket 100 Som. Sekitar dua jam perjalanan, angkot yang semula padat itu langsung kosong. Ini masih kota Karaköl dan saya sudah disuruh turun. “Toktogul?” saya bertanya. “Nyet. Eta Karakol. Bukan, ini Karaköl,” kata si supir dalam bahasa [...]

July 19, 2013 // 1 Comment

Garis Batas 24: Cita Rasa Osh

Restoran Laghman Uyghur (AGUSTINUS WIBOWO) Osh, kota terbesar kedua di Kyrgyzstan, adalah sebuah kejutan luar biasa setelah mengalami beratnya hidup di GBAO-nya Tajikistan. Kota ini, walaupun dikelilingi gunung-gunung, suhunya sangat hangat. Osh adalah kota dalam definisi yang sebenarnya, dengan hiruk pikuk manusia dan segala kesibukannya. Bukan kota-kota di GBAO macam Khorog dan Murghab yang hanya menyimpan kisah sedih pegunungan terpencil. Arus mobil dan bus kota berseliweran tanpa henti. Jalanan pasar penuh sesak oleh orang-orang yang berbelanja. Gedung-gedung tinggi berbentuk balok berbaris sepanjang jalan. Penduduk Osh adalah percampuran berbagai suku bangsa. Ada orang Kyrgyz yang berwajah Mongoloid. Ada orang Uzbek yang berwajah keturki-turkian. Ada gadis-gadis Korea yang berpakaian modis. Banyak juga orang Rusia dan Tatar yang berkulit putih pucat. Dering ringtone telepon seluler seakan tak pernah putus di tengah riuh rendahnya pasar kota Osh. Tetapi kejutan yang paling menggembirakan setelah meninggalkan GBAO adalah, saya tidak akan pernah kelaparan di Osh. Dalam bahasa Tajik, Osh memang berarti makanan. Apakah memang ada hubungan antara kata ini dengan melimpahnya makanan lezat di Osh? Duduk di atas dipan, sambil menghirup panasnya secangkir teh hitam dan menyaksikan mengalirnya sang waktu adalah kebiasaan kakek-kakek Uzbek dan Kyrgyz melewatkan hari mereka di Osh. Sambusa, pastel kecil berbentuk segitiga [...]

July 17, 2013 // 0 Comments

Bishkek – Kazakhstan Visa

Visa of the Republic of Kazakhstan Getting Kazakhstan visa in Bishkek was not difficult, but as for any countries in Central Asia, Indonesian passport holders need to be ‘consulted’. The visa application should be approved by central government by the respected countries. Only for Tajikistan we recently got exemption for Letter of Invitation (LOI) and entitled for visa-on-arrival at Dushanbe airport. Getting a LOI meant you have to get a pre-arranged invitation approved by the Ministry of Foreign Affairs. This can be arranged through a travel agency (30-80$). Many nationalities, included Malaysians, don need this invitation letter stuff and they could directly apply for visas in any Kazakh embassies. The Kazakhstan embassies were well-known all over the world for their cold service. And for this cool winter in Bishkek, the staff faces were even much colder. The embassy had moved to a new location recently, south part of the city. I came early but there were already many people queuing. Most of them were Kazakh and Turkish. Other Central Asian nations are exempted for visa to enter Kazakhstan. Armed by the invitation letter that was approved already by Almaty, I was given an application form and asked to make payment [...]

November 27, 2006 // 0 Comments

Bishkek – Uzbekistan Visa

Another bureaucratic thing to do in Bishkek For Indonesian passport holders, Uzbekistan visa requires Letter of Invitation. Recently getting Uzbekistan visa is more difficult then before, since the Andijan massacre in 2005. Before the American passport holders were granted multiple entry visa, but since the Karimov president kicked all the American soldiers out, the visa is now only for one month, single entry, same for anybody else. Only the Japanese passport holders still enjoy the privilege of no LOI, no visa fee (they only pay 15$ for the visa). I got my invitation from the Embassy of Republic of Indonesia in Tashkent. It is a personal invitation from one of the diplomats there, Mrs Sunarti Ichwanto. It is also a 1-month, single entry visa. But they said that the visa can be extended. The Uzbekistan embassy requires invitation per telephone for people who apply for visa, and as interview will be conducted, everybody either should speak Russian or bring a Russian translator. I came very early today. The snow just started. It was very cold to wait outside the embassy. I got the first turn to enter, as I called 3 days earlier. The application form was completely in Russian. [...]

November 22, 2006 // 0 Comments

Bishkek – A Wedding in the Capital

The bride and the groom departs from the very same house Moken big house became very crowded since the previous week, when relatives from Toktogul all flooded the house complex. Moken house was considered quite big, located at the outskirt of Bishkek, at least 40 minutes by car from the city center. He should be considered a middle class, if not rich, in the living standard of Kyrgyzstan. He had an expensive car as he was a taxi driver plying Toktogul – Bishkek road, and his house consisted of several separated buildings, including a stable which housed his numerous sheep and goats. As in Tajikistan, in Kyrgyzstan taxi drivers generally had quite high position in society spectrum of the people. Everybody in Toktogul knew about him. Moken had three sons. The eldest, Timur, has just married to a girl recently. Both of Timur and Zarina, his wife, were very young, not more than 20 years old. In Central Asia, people marry at very early age. Timur and Zarina lived together since their marriage a month before. Now they were preparing for the reception. It was weird for me that the reception had to wait long after the marriage. Maybe Moken [...]

November 19, 2006 // 0 Comments

Bishkek – Lost Passport

My Indonesian passport. Looks old and dirty, but without which I am nobody. I am, maybe as well as the readers of this blog are, tired of my own carelessness. I lost count already of how many problems I faced in this trip due to my stupidity. And now it happened something that almost destroyed my entire traveling dream. I went with Maksat to the city center. I stayed with Moken family in a complex outskirt of Bishkek. From Ala Too complex to Bishkek city center we need to take mashrutkoe (lit. fixed line, means minibus) for 30 minutes. There was no internet café around so the only choice was to go to the city to get a web access. After about 1 week in the villages between Bishkek and Osh, now I desperately needed and internet connection. We want to Tsum. Tsum, center department store, is always available in all ex-Soviet big cities. In Bishkek, it is 3 storey building at the city’s commercial center. The internet access is fast, but expensive. I noticed many Internet cafes in Kyrgyzstan try to scam the clients by so-called ‘traffic fee’ system. They charge the Internet time usage as well as how [...]

November 16, 2006 // 0 Comments

Dushanbe – Greetings from Tajik Capital

Stamps of independent Tajikistan still use Russian Cyrillic alphabet along with Latin. They portrays local heros and culture, also other colorful cartoonish and big stamps with unrelated topics for collectors, like: outer space, Euro football competition, Elvis Presley, Bruce Lee and panda Finally, I arrived in Dushanbe, the capital of Tajikistan. The Tajik border is located across the river from the Afghan port of Shir Khan Bandar. It’s an expensive fare of 10 dollars per person to cross the river by boat. The Tajik immigration is located somewhere further, and it was another 1 dollar to reach the immigration office by bus. And they still charged 5 dollars for luggage checking (customs). I befriended the old customs officer. We talked in Farsi and he was so happy looking at Indonesian photos. Actually he already signaled me to leave soon after the custom check, that way I could avoid the 5 dollar fee. But I really didnt know about the 5 dollar game, and I insisted to get a registration slip from him, as I presumed in Central Asia if you leave the country without the slip, you will have problem. He told me that for Tajikistan, registration slip would only [...]

October 7, 2006 // 0 Comments