Zarnegar Hotel & Restaurant

Our choice (at the time based on financial limitations first and foremost) of accomodation in Kabul was the Zarnegar, a centrally based busy fusion of attached lodgings, kebabs and tea in an attached cafe. On the first level above the street on this photo is the outdoor balcony, from where activity on the streets below could be watched. On the upper levels were the east facing rooms themselves in which 4:30am-5:00am waking was not unusual each morning as the sun rose and baked the room through glass windows like a green house. Reasonably cheap and very dirty, it was probably the more interesting choice rather than one of the hotels which was very popular with foreign workers. All kinds of local characters were met in Zarnegar, a raw and rather unsecure option. If memory serves, the owner was initially hesitant to let us stay as our foreign status could be a complication. One night we heard a knock on the door, opening it to be met by several men who were local police or army asking us for further details about our visit in Kabul.

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