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Kathmandu – Philately Day

September 2, 2005 Thamel Guesthouse 100 NRs Everybody gets very lazy in Nepal, especially if he has just finished the hard trip in Tibet. I met the two Israelis who I met in Shergar (Everest, Tibet) and were going to Nepali border. It was really surprising to hear their story, that on that day when I decided to go to Everest, there was not even a single vehicle able to take them to Old Tingri. So they decided to go backtrack to Shigatse, and then rent a jeep (600 yuan per person) to go to border. I feel very very lucky to be able to take a truck and even without a single cent. These two Israelis were also got very lazy in Kathmandu, and they need days before deciding to take a short trek somewhere in northern Nepal. And as for me, even up till now, I have no idea what to do and where to go in Nepal. Just want to go to India ASAP to have the camera repaired, but still dun want to skip the attractions of Nepal. A new day is started here, when you hear Hindus music from the street orchestra played by the [...]

September 2, 2005 // 0 Comments

Kathmandu – Go for Photos

September 1, 2005 Thamel Guesthouse 100 NRs Cameras are back. But they failed to repair my Nikon 8800 camera (they are canon anyway). But the steep labour cost of 2000 NRs (28 US$) no matter whether they can or cannot repair it, makes me quite painful. Anyway, after much of enlightment, from photographers and non-photographers, I decided to keep using my Nikon camera. It does indeed make me practicing to take photos by thinking. Using digital cameras is easy, you can just take photos as many as you can, and somehow neglecting the long thinking process of your brain which was essential when you used the analog camera. Now I have to use a digital camera but think in analog way. Not bad practice, anyway, but I will surely miss many moments that actually I could capture. Just found an internet cafe with Photoshop, so I will upload my Tibetan photos soon after little bit of editing and resizing. Your comments and suggestions are [...]

September 1, 2005 // 0 Comments

Kathmandu – Looking for an Old Friend

August 31, 2005 Thamil Guest House 100 NRS (moved to a cheaper hotel now…) Still waiting for my cameras. It is supposed to be repaired today, but it is delayed. It cost me 128 dollars to repair my A85 camera, and still dont know how much to pay for the 8800 one. I am poor just in fortnight…. To dispose time, I went to the General Post Office. Ten years ago I sent 100 usd here to buy stamps, and the money still last for 10 years…. Nepali stamps are very cheap, the whole stamps in a year just will cost you around 3 – 4 US Dollars (!). But the officer told me, that amount was expensive for Nepalis. 10 years ago, I also had a penfriend from Kathmandu. I bring a letter and a photo from him, wishing that there will be an opportunity of meeting an old friend. But the address of this friend is a PO Box. It is very common for people/companies in Kathmandu to have a PO Box due to the poor addressing system in this city. The philatelic bureau officer was so kind of helping me checking the data of the owner of [...]

August 31, 2005 // 2 Comments

Kathmandu – Tashidelek

August 30, 2005 Kathmandu Tourist Bungallow 200 NRs Today I decided to repair my cameras, despite of the unavailability of Nikon Service Center. The recommended service is an authorized Canon service in New Road. On my way from Thamel to New Road, I passed several small alleys, and suddenly I heard someone greets me, “Tashidele”. I saw an unknown face, but this man insisted that he saw me somewhere in Lhasa (in Jokhang temple, even I am sure I have never entered that temple). He then greeted me by touching my forehead with his forehead, Tibetan way. Then, like an old friend, he told me all of his stories, that he is going to Dharmasala, that he is a monk there and how Dalai Lama will protect me. OK, as he is so friendly, I decided to spend some time before going to repair my camera. I offered a tea. He chose a very luxurious restaurant (good, good….), and then while waiting for the tea, he gave me a necklace that he claimed was from Dalai Lama and has accompanied him for 20 yrs. (I cant believe that someone could give such a precious item to anyone he just met [...]

August 30, 2005 // 6 Comments

Kathmandu – Am I Traveler or Photographer?

August 29, 2005 Kathmandu Tourist Bungallow 200 NRs What??? No Nikon Service Center in whole Nepal??? And I have to go to India just to reach an authorized Nikon service. My day suddenly turns darker. I only spent the whole day in the internet cafe searchng all possibilities of authorized camera repair service in kathmandu. But of no use. And if I go to India now, I will spend so much money to come back to Nepal after. And I havent seen anything of Nepal. This day is a instropection day for me. Just because of not having any cameras working at this moment, I have spoilt my days. I am losing the spirit of travelling…, and I am not what I was some years ago. Indeed camera has made me closer to the environment, it helps me to make new friends, and of course it was part of the whole memory. But now I am too bounded by it, I felt that I am nothing without cameras, and I feel really really weak. I am disappointed by my condition now, I am really not a traveller, just merely a photographer (or not?)… I believe I can recover soon. And [...]

August 29, 2005 // 2 Comments

Kathmandu – Farewell My…. China

Selamat tinggal Republik Rakyat China. (AGUSTINUS WIBOWO) August 28, 2005 Kathmandu Tourist Bungallow 200 NRs for a big double bed room with attached luxurious bathroom (sometimes I need luxury also, ) From Nyalam to Zhangmu (Chinese-Nepali border) it’s a 30 km journey down the hill. And the scenery is completely different. Here, it looks quite like indonesia, green forests (compared to rainforests of Java), plus the snow peaks far away there. Again, the driver often stops the truck to let me take pictures of the scenery (even sometimes I dont think there is something to photo about). This highway is the longest road in China, more than 5300 kms starting from shanghai to Zhangmu. Arriving in Zhangmu quite early in the morning. In order to avoid the problem with police (truck drivers are not allowed to take passengers) I got off some meters before the checkpoint and walked my way there. Zhangmu is quite a “long” town, down the way to Nepal. So the direction used here is “up” or “down”. My driver refused my payment for the lift, so I traveled the 200 km from Tingri for free, merely that because I am a student of Tsinghua. The driver [...]

August 28, 2005 // 2 Comments

Nyalam – Faithful

August 27, 2005 A Sichuan guesthouse in Nyalam, gratis Yup, there is something missing from my bags. For sure, the books are still complete. I lost a Tibetan cloth for my mom and my favorite Indonesian batik trousers. Actually it was just clothes, I can buy a new one easily. But I foolishly answered them when they asked whether there was something missing. The family became very anxious, and they searched whole over the house, without no result. The atmosphere was very unpleasant. My driver tried to explain to me, it was not him who steal, nor his family (I believed). I said to him, it was just clothes, no worry at all. But for them, it seems that faith is the most important thing. There were many people coming to this house, so I dont blame the family at all. But it was really makes me feel bad when everyone tried to convince me that they didnt steal (It was only clothes!!!). My driver even, suddenly, cried in front of me. Saying that they never steal anything from others. I felt really really bad. Just two clothes missing and the family atmosphere turns to be a very strange feeling. [...]

August 27, 2005 // 2 Comments

Shegar – The Beautiful Girl with Khatak

August 26, 2005 Donchuk’s House 15 Yuan What a lucky day! After hiding behind the clouds, the beautiful Everest at last showing up. The slight clouds around it looks like a khatak (Tibetan scarf) on a princess’ neck. The sky was dark blue, emphasizing the coldness of the hugest mountain on earth. And being able to see her beauty was really knocking my heart. Some people spent even some nights here without seeing anything. But this beautiful scene went off very fast. Just after two hours, another big dark cloud came and covered the whole area. Today I tasted tsampa, the Tibetan powder mixed with the butter tea. A real traditional Tibetan dish. I put much sugar to suit my Indonesian taste. The way back to Shegar took around 6 hours. The moto has to climb a hill, reach the top (Chou-La), then climb down. The road is zig-zagging, and there are about 108 turnings in total. Feeling tired of zig-zaging, I chose to climb with my legs. Just about four points, there was a jeep of Chinese tourists passed by. And they were excited to see a poor dirty climber with big bags, they said “BRAVO!!” to me and [...]

August 26, 2005 // 2 Comments

Everest Base Camp – Getting Closer to the Top of the World

August 25, 2005 Everest Base Camp 20 Yuan/bed in a Tibetan camp (actually can be bargained to 5 yuan, but foolishly I didnt) Have heard about Everest? I have heard many stories about getting there. Very expensive, and as foreigner you have to apply for special permit. I did, 150 yuan, just a few minutes in Shigatse. But the high price of the transport going there did really scary me. Most people charter land cruisers from Lhasa (more than 1000 yuan/person). Let me list you what you have to pay if you go by a Land cruiser: – entry ticket 25 yuan/1 day trip, 65 yuan for 2-10 day trip – entry ticket for the vehicle 405 yuan – eco bus from Pasong to Rongphu monastery 80 yuan round trip. but if you return on the next day you still have to pay another 80 yuan – horse chart from Rongphu to base camp 60 yuan/2 person. if you are alone you still have to pay 60 yuan. and if you return the next day, the same story, you have to pay another 60 yuan. So, I decided to go to Old Tingri instead, as I am not so keen [...]

August 25, 2005 // 3 Comments

Shegar – Awkward

August 24, 2005 Family Hotel 30 yuan/bed As many people requested, now on I will put the information of the accomodation that I use during my trip. The day started very early when I arrived in Shigatse bus station to take the public bus to Shegar (New Tingri), the gateway to the Everest base camp. I just knew that I am really lucky, I look Chinese and I speak Chinese, and I purchased the public bus ticket easily. Apparently the bus station in Shigatse doesnt sell ticket to foreigners, and the drivers usually refuse foreigners to get in (but still u can do some tricks). I met a Canadian heading to Nepal but couldnt get into the bus. And after 6 hours of journey, the bus took two Israelis who hitchhiked some kms away from Lhatse. These two Israelis have tried hard to get their way to Nepal, but all buses and trucks refused to take them, until our bus came. The road deteriorates after Lhatse. And once our bus “sinked” into the mud, and they needed around 1 hour to rescue it. A very unpleasant situation happened today. In Shegar, when we (the two Israelis and I) had dinner, [...]

August 24, 2005 // 1 Comment

Gyantse – “The Town with Least Chinese Influence”

August 23, 2005 There are many cars going from Shigatse to Gyantse. Cost 20 yuan for a 2 hour trip. Gyantse is written in a famous guide book as a Tibetan town with the least chinese influence. But my guidebook was published in 2000. But today you will be able to see a bunch of Sichuanese restaurants and chinese department stores scattered on the main roads. Fortunately, there is the old town session of the city, where you will see almost no Chinese shops. Only Tibetan. This road will lead you to the Pelkor Chode monastery. The official ticket fee is 40 yuan, but after negotiation with the ticket selling “monks” I made it down to 20 yuan. The monks told me that the average monthly income of the monks here is just around 300 yuan, but monks who sell ticket earn much more. Everyday there is prayers session in the assembly hall. I took a picture, and then a young monk came and fined me 20 yuan photography charge. I didnt know about this, and I paid without negotiation (although I have heard previously even this can be bargained). Apparently this is also another method for the monastery to [...]

August 23, 2005 // 7 Comments

Shigatse – Tashilhunpo Monastery

August 22, 2005 There are some buses daily from Lhasa to Shigatse, I took the earliest bus (8 pm, 50 Y) from the bus station not far from Banakshol Hotel (where I stay in Lhasa). Travelling while having diarrhea is really painful and difficult. I dont want to explain how this 5.5 hour trip be one of my most painful trips. The city of Shigatse itself is uninspiring, just look like a normal Chinese town. But the monastery is quite nice, despite of unbargainable entrance ticket of 55 yuan (I have negotiated for more than 1 hour, but of no use…, the monks are very persistant of charging everybody the full fare). I am not a fans of monasteries actually. This monastery is one of 3 important temples for the Yellow Sect. It’s really grand. For me the main reason to enter the monastery is that they have prayers at 6 pm (no photos allowed, but the religious atmosphere will knock each room of your heart). The highlight of today is, to be in the monks’ dormitory. It was really fascinating to talk with the monks in their most private room. The monks here earn 1200-1400 yuan/mo per person (from [...]

August 22, 2005 // 1 Comment

Lhasa – Sera Monastery

August 21, 2005 As my condition was getting well in the afternoon, and so was the weather, I decided to go to Sera Monastery. I have heard that there is a discussion class every afternoon. Sera Monastery is about 5 km from city centre, but the entrance ticket of 50 yuan held my steps. Two days ago I came to this monastery and circulated it already. Today, as I was still thinking to pay or not to pay the entrance fee, I did circulate it once more. Suddenly I met three Chinese travellers, of which one of them I met yesterday inquiring about traveling to Western Tibet. They told me that they didnt want either to pay the 50 yuan ticket and wanted to climb and jump the wall to enter. We found a rather low wall. I was anxious to do this, but they one by one successfully crossed the wall of 2 m height. When it comes to my turn, I didnt have any other choice either as they had passed my bags to the other side of the wall. And I practised all of my ability of climbing, jumping, crawling, etc…, and I successfully landed to the [...]

August 21, 2005 // 3 Comments

Lhasa – Rainy Day (Again)

August 21, 2005 It’s raining hard again in Lhasa. It’s my 4th day here and there are only two types of days: cloudy or rainy. I have heard that Jokhang Temple is opening for visitors without ticket early in the morning, at 8 am, as the pilgrims are allowed to enter. But today is exception. It seems that there is a VIP woman visiting the temple at 8, and the door is shut for anybody else, including the Tibetan pilgrims. I give up the idea of visiting Jokhang Temple, and I am not so willing of paying 70 yuan of entrance fee. As a Buddhist, I feel it’s really strange that a worshipping place requests an expensive enforced ticket fee to visitors. Bored in Lhasa…. Due to my illness I have to take a rest one more day here, wasting money of doing nothing… Cant take photo either as it’s raining the whole day. Anyhow, tomorrow I have to leave this city. Frankly speaking, 4 days in Lhasa I visited none of its tourism attraction. But I am happy here as I met some very nice monks with very deep [...]

August 21, 2005 // 2 Comments

Lhasa – Diarrhea :(

August 20, 2005 All plans are cancelled today, as I got diarrhea. Cant go to Namtso (The Heaven Lake) as all buses depart in the morning, and my stomach didnt want to cooperate with me at all. My visa is limited so I probably wont have any chance to see Namtso in this trip. Disappointed, of course, as Namtso is always in my dream. Maybe God wants something else that we dont expect. Anyway, the weather was nice in early morning, but cloudy again in the midday. All my days in Lhasa are cloudy….. where is the blue sky of Lhasa??? But I have to keep moving, hopefully can catch the bus the day after tomorrow to Shigatse. During the day, it was very sunny. During my 3 days here, it’s the first time to see the sunny Lhasa, but it lasted only for few hours. It’s raining again now. When walking around the main road, I was stopped by two monks. “Thasidele,” they started the conversation. Then they asked for money for donation for their monastery, any amount is OK, they said. I gave them 2 yuan. Then they gave me amulet, asked me to write my name in [...]

August 20, 2005 // 1 Comment

Lhasa, Awakeness

August 19, 2005 I have to admit, these two days I got be very selfish and weak… if I may blame, that is the 90 hour devilish bus journey and those commersialization and heavy sinofication in Lhasa. Talking about commersialization, as a Buddhist I felt very terrible myself when seeing how the monasteries here competing to earn as much money as possible by charging very expensive tickets. I remember when a monk insisted to charge us a ticket of 10 yuan just when we wanted to climb a hill to see sunset! Today there are some “enlightments” that brought back my spirit. The “kora” travelling around the Sera Monastery was exciting. The ticket to enter the monastery is an expensive 50 yuan, but doing round trip outside the wall is free of charge. The gem of today is the young novice monks outside the Potala Palace. I have never been entering Potala due to its expensive ticket (100 yuan) and I cant afford it. OK, forget about the tickets now. These monks coming from Qinghai Province by walking to Lhasa to do pilgrimage. They were all friendly and curious, especially when I share the life of novice monks of Laos [...]

August 19, 2005 // 2 Comments

Lhasa – Arrival

August 19, 2005 Pheww!!! At last, I arrived in Lhasa after 90 hour bus journey from Ngari. The people there said that the journey should last for around 48 hours, but dozens of hours of flattened tires, broken engines, etc etc, God lets us, at last, to arrive in Lhasa. Indonesian national holiday, August 17, 2005. It;s the 60th anniversary of our republic. While most other indonesians celebrate the day with lots of extravaganza, festivals, competitions, carnivals, etc etc, I was trapped in this shitty bus. How I celebrated the day was just singing to myself the national anthem Indonesia Raya, the marchs, the traditional songs from Sabang until Merauke. And I sang the whole day….. how lonely Somehow I regretted my decision to take this bus. But two days without any car to hitch in Baka made me think twice also. Usually I prefer to hitchhike or take public transport, but the 90 hour journey from Ngari to Lhasa has made me very very weak at this moment, and I have no spirit at all these days. I am thinking to rent a jeep to take me directly to Nepal border, but am I really that weak? [...]

August 19, 2005 // 1 Comment

Kailash Pilgrimage

August, 9-13, 2005, What a bad luck, a PSB officer was sitting in front of me in the bus heading to Kailash, the holy mountain of the Buddhists and Hindus. This PSB officer, unexpectedly, speaks very good english, made me unable communicate with other two Koreans travelling with me. She is friendly, but very determined to fine us of entering Tibet ilegally. I managed to escape as I pretended to be a Chinese Cantonese (I look Chinese, I speak Chinese, and everyone believes I am Chinese). Everything here is divided into Chinese price and foreign price. For example, the bus ticket for chinese is 230 yuan, and for foreigners 300 yuan. And of course I got the Chinese price, hehe.. The unlucky two Koreans at last also managed to escape from her in the Kailash. So the next day we did the Kailash pilgrimage, or “Kora” in Tibetan language. Kora is to walk around the holy mountain on a track of 54 km. I did it in two days, separated by other people in our group. One of my legs is twisted, swept by the holy river (and alas, one of my cameras was in my pocket and it is [...]

August 13, 2005 // 1 Comment

Ngari (Western Tibet)

August 8, 2005, At last, I arrived in Tibet. The journey from Khargilik is actually illegal for foreigners. I first attempted to hitchhike a truck to take me from Khargilik to Ngari (250 Y) but the truck driver was not so sure whether he can take foreigners. At last I took the sleeper bus by paying chinese price (350 Y), while other foreigners paid 600 Y. The bus owner knows exactly that this is illegal to take foreigners in his bus, so he secured us (5 foreigners in total) in two private cars crossing the first checkpoint. Apparently in the first checkpoint, the Chinese police only checks the buses and trucks as they didnt stop the small private cars. So we passed the first checkpoint without any problem. The second checkpoint is checking the border permits of chinese citizens, so foreign passports just can pass without problems. The journey to Ngari is not an easy journey, in fact, it is the most difficult among the other entrances to Tibet. But here the checks against foreigners are quite minimum. The bus went thru high passes of the highland, the highest elevation of this trip is 6700m. I got quite severe high [...]

August 8, 2005 // 1 Comment

Khargilik – Getting closer to Tibet

August 3, 2005, Khargilik, another Uyghur town directly heading the taklamakan desert, is the gateway to go to Tibet. There are several buses from Khotan to Khargilik, accross the plain desert area for about 5 hours (31 Yuan for cheapest ticket). I woke up quite late today, and without having any breakfast, I got the 10 o’clock bus. Alas, the bus had problem in the middle of the way, and the trip was delayed for about 2 hours. But for me it was a nice opportunity to make friends with other uyghur passengers. (despite the grawling stomach asking for noodle….) What I think about uyghurs does always change, and I bet I am changing. Two years ago, the first time I came to Uyghuristan, I felt that the Uyghurs were rude and macho, and I was horrified on how they play “dum-dum” on the train, where the hit, slap, and kick each other. The next year I came to Uyghuristan again, I felt that the Uyghurs are lovable, as I was involved in playing dum-dum by myself, and I found that the slap and kicking were indeed sign of love and friendship (don’t mention how painful it was). This year, [...]

August 3, 2005 // 0 Comments

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