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Iran

#1Pic1Day: Namaku Pengungsi | Growing Up as Refugee (Iran, 2008)

  Growing Up As Refugee (Yazd, Iran, 2008) Most of about a million Afghan nationals living in Iran are refugees, fled their war-torn country during the 1980s Soviet war and 1990s Taliban regime. The majority of the refugees are the Shiite Hazara who receives prosecution under the Taliban. Despite of their religious bond with the Shiite Iran, the Afghan refugees are treated with suspiciousness, discrimination and sometimes hostility. They cannot obtain Iranian citizenship or permanent residency, and the children have no rights to receive proper education. Iran-Afghanistan porous border is also infamous for people and drug smuggling.   Namaku Pengungsi (Yazd, Iran, 2008) Sebagian besar dari 1 juta warga Afghan yang tinggal di Iran adalah para pengungsi yang melarikan diri dari negeri mereka yang dilanda perang berkepanjangan, terutama pada era 1980-an saat perang melawan Soviet dan era 1990-an pada masa rezim Taliban. Kebanyakan para pengungsi adalah etnis Syiah Hazara yang mengalami pembantaian pada masa Taliban. Walaupun secara agama mereka dekat dengan masyarakat Iran yang mayoritas Syiah, para pengungsi Afghan selalu dicurigai, didiskriminasi, dan sering kali dibenci. Mereka tidak bisa memperoleh kewarganegaraan Iran atau izin tinggal permanen, dan anak-anak mereka tidak bisa ke sekolah. Perbatasan Iran-Afghanistan yang sangat longgar menjadi pintu [...]

September 12, 2013 // 12 Comments

#1Pic1Day: Too Sexy (Iran, 2008)

Too Sexy (Tehran, Iran, 2008)   Too Sexy (Iran, 2008) The government of the Islamic Republic of Iran imposes strict regulations on dressing code. Pictures of women in printed materials are censored whenever regarded as un-Islamic.   Terlalu Seksi (Iran, 2008) Pemerintah Republik Islam Iran menerapkan aturan cara berpakaian yang sangat ketat. Gambar perempuan pada majalah pun disensor apabila dinilai tidak [...]

September 11, 2013 // 0 Comments

#1Pic1Day: Festival of Death (Iran, 2010)

Festival of Death / Festival Kematian (Mashhad, Iran, 2008)     Festival of Death (Mashhad, Iran, 2008) Black is the color dominating important dates in Iran. Men-in-black parade through the boulevards. They beat their heads and chests, flagellate their backs with metal chains. Sometimes you hear weep and mourning amid busy band noise and harmonious chanting. Most of important religious events in Iran are related to martyrdom of the saints, and are commemorated in full swing. The most important event is Ashora (Martyrdom of Imam Hussain) and Arbain (40 days after the Martyrdom of Imam Hussain). In this picture is commemoration of the Demise of Prophet Muhammad (PBUH) and Martyrdom of Imam Hassan.   Festival Kematian (Mashhad, Iran, 2008) Hitam adalah warna yang mendominasi hari-hari besar di Iran. Para lelaki berbaju hitam berarak menyusuri jalan. Dada dan kepala ditepuk, rantai dipukulkan ke punggung, sesekali terdengar tangis susul-menyusul di tengah dentuman suara band dan lantunan doa berirama. Di antara hari-hari besar religius di Iran, mayoritas memang berupa peringatan kematian dan diperingati secara kolosal. Yang terpenting adalah hari Ashora (peringatan kesyahidan Imam Hussain) dan Arbain (peringatan 40 hari setelah kesyahidan Imam Hussain). Dalam gambar ini adalah ritual peringatan wafatnya Rasulullah dan kesyahidan [...]

September 10, 2013 // 5 Comments

Garis Batas 61: Pancaran Sinar Lazuardi

Reruntuhan Masjid Bibi Khanym (AGUSTINUS WIBOWO) Ratusan tahun lalu, kota ini pernah menjadi pusat dunia. Di sinilah segala macam bangunan raksasa, mercu suar peradaban dunia, berdiri dengan segala keanggunannya. Puing-puing reruntuhan Masjid Bibi Khanym, yang pada zamannya pernah menjadi bangunan tertinggi di dunia, dibangun oleh sang Raja Amir Timur sebagai lambang cintanya untuk permaisuri tersayang dari negeri Tiongkok, masih menggambarkan kebesaran dan kejayaan negeri ini. Belum lagi barisan kuburan indah di kota makam bernama Shakhr-i-Zinda, yang diperuntukkan bagi Sang Raja Hidup yang membawa cahaya Islam ke tengah padang Asia Tengah. Bait-bait puisi mengalir bak air bah, di bawah kegagahan gedung-gedung kuno. Bintang, planet, galaksi ditemukan dari teropong panjang milik Ulughbek. Barisan karavan para saudagar tak pernah berhenti singgah di kota yang semakin hiruk pikuk oleh berbagai aktivitas perdagangan. Sinar lazuardi tak pernah berhenti memancar dari keagungan Samarkand. Samarkand memang tak pernah mati. Samarkand sekarang adalah ibu kota Samarkand Viloyati atau Provinsi Samarkand, kota terbesar kedua di Uzbekistan dengan jumlah penduduk hampir setengah juta jiwa. Musim panasnya menyengat, musim dinginnya bermandi salju. Tetapi nama Samarkand, yang senantiasa hidup dalam angan mimpi dan fantasi, adalah sebuah Samarkand yang dipenuhi alunan musik padang pasir, membahana memuja kemajuan peradaban. Zaman terus berputar. Gedung-gedung raksasa [...]

September 6, 2013 // 1 Comment

National Geographic Traveler Indonesia (2013): Kemeriahan Perkabungan

Portfolio | Foto dan Teks oleh Agustinus Wibowo Di Iran, dalam setahun setidaknya ada sepuluh hari besar religi. Pada hari kesepuluh bulan Muharram, warga Syi’ah memperingati kesyahidan Hussain, cucu Nabi Muhammad—dikenal sebagai Hari Asyura. Para umat di Iran berparade di hari wafatnya Nabi Muhammad. Mereka memukul-mukulkan rantai ke dada sebagai ungkapan kesedihan. Peringatan ini bertepatan dengan hari kesyahidan Hassan, cucu Nabi. Hitam adalah warna yang mendominasi. Lelaki, juga berbaju hitam, berarak menyusuri jalan. Dada dan kepala ditepuk, rantai dipukulkan ke punggung, sesekali terdengar tangis susul-menyusul. Sebuah peringatan kematian. “Tidak ada darah dalam peringatan di Iran. Itu dilarang pemerintah. Kau lihat sendiri, kami memperingati hari besar kami dengan cara beradab,” kata seorang umat dari pinggiran Teheran. Lantunan doa memenuhi angkasa. Menggelegar pula suara tetabuhan band mengiringi para lelaki yang berbaris, berparade sepanjang jalan. Pertempuran di medan Karbala ditampilkan sebagai pertunjukan teater di masjid dan jalanan. Lelaki berbaju zirah memerankan tokoh Hussain yang gagah, menunggang kuda putih menantang Yazid yang lalim. Bait-bait puisi Persia mendayu, diiringi merdunya denting dawai. Drama berlangsung hingga tengah malam. Pada puncaknya, para lakon menggambarkan bagaimana satu demi satu anggota keluarga Hussain meninggal dengan mengenaskan. Mereka menyebut ritual tahunan ini “Festival Hussain.” Sebuah perkabungan yang menjadi [...]

August 19, 2013 // 0 Comments

Garis Batas 2: Selamat Datang di Tajikistan

Perempuan Tajikistan di dalam bus, bebas bercampur dengan penumpang pria. Sebuah kontras dibandingkan Afghanistan di seberang sungai yang sangat konservatif (AGUSTINUS WIBOWO) Kota terakhir Afghanistan adalah Shir Khan Bandar, di tepian sungai lebar bernama Amu Darya. Sungai ini ditetapkan sebagai batas antara Afghanistan dengan Kekaisaran Rusia pada akhir abad ke-19. Sekarang menjadi batas negara Afghanistan dengan Tajikistan, Uzbekistan, dan Turkmenistan. Bandar dalam bahasa Persia artinya pelabuhan. Tetapi jangan bayangkan Shir Khan Bandar sebagai kota pelabuhan yang sibuk dengan berbagai macam aktivitas perdagangan. Yang ada hanya gedung-gedung bolong seperti rumah hantu. Gedung itu ternyata asrama tentara perbatasan Afghanistan. Debu menyelimuti jalanan. Ada barisan reruntuhan sejumlah rumah di tengah padang pasir luas. Ada sekolah yang tak berdaun pintu, tak berkaca jendela, dan tak beratap. Anak-anak belajar dengan bersila di atas lantai dingin. Di Afghanistan dunia adalah milik laki-laki. Sama sekali tak nampak perempuan di jalan, kecuali dua sosok tubuh dibalut burqa biru, dari ujung mata sampai ujung kaki. Saya menghela napas lega. Di seberang sana Tajikistan sudah tampak di pelupuk mata. Di tengah bulan Ramadan ini, keamanan di Kabul justru semakin gawat. Bulan Ramadan malah jadi musim bom, karena Taliban mendorong pengikutnya untuk ‘berjihad’ di bulan suci. Pernah suatu kali bom meledak [...]

June 5, 2013 // 3 Comments

Traveler【旅行家】(2011):伊朗旅游的“后ADS时代”: 既小众,又高端

伊朗,一个国际政治里的高频词汇,一个美国眼中的高危国家,还是一个全球游客心目中的神秘国度。作为旅游目的地,伊朗还属于中东地区的新军:2010年全年,伊朗的外国游客入境人数为312.5万人次,而从伊朗驻中国大使馆办理赴伊签证的人数仅约1.8万人次;它的邻国土耳其在2003年就曾有过单月入境超过200万人次的记录,2010年更是吸引外国游客2860万人次。

October 23, 2011 // 0 Comments

Mashhad – The Empty Border

The dusty border Two years ago, when I came to Iran for the first time through the Islam Qala border, I was astonished by the scene of hundreds of wild Afghan men fighting to pass the border line, to quit their homeland and reach hope in rich Iran. But now, it’s not anymore the scene. The Afghan-Iranian border in Islam Qala is quite empty. Iran has tightened up the visa approval for Afghans. Land crossing is no more permitted for ordinary Afghans. The Iranian visa from Kabul is mostly stamped “For Air Travel Only”, putting them to obtain roundtrip ticket only with Iranian airlines. In some cases, visa applicants need to spend at least 1000 dollars just to get the entry visa. Indeed, one’s passport determines his or her fate. I arrived in Afghan immigration hall after 100 meter walk. People are sitting idly to wait for the officers come back from their lunch break. There are three officers behind the table. One is examining the passports, one is stamping, and the last one is noting down t he data before distributing the passports. All Afghans have to pay 10.000 Rial or 40 Afghani to the man who stamped the [...]

June 9, 2009 // 1 Comment

U-Mag (2008): Tulip Merah di Hari Baru

June 2008 U-Mag Travel TULIP MERAH DI HARI BARU Teks dan Foto: Agustinus Wibowo “Biya ke berim ba Mazar…. Mulla Muhammad jan,” lagu rakyat Afghan itu mendayu perlahan-lahan, mengajak semua orang pergi ke kota suci Mazar-e-Sharif. Di sana ada tulip merah merekah, makam suci bertasbih mukjizat, ada semangat Afghan yang menggelora. Di sana ada Singa Allah, raja umat manusia. Di sana, kita menyambut datangnya Hari Baru ketika salju mencair, angin dingin mereda, dan padang rumput menghijau… Naw Ruz Inilah Afghanistan, negeri yang tersembunyi di alam mimpi. Namanya lebih kerap menyiratkan kekerasan, perang, dan maut. Tetapi di sinilah sesungguhnya peradaban mulai berayun. Kota-kota kuno tegak, kejayaan masa lalu berpendar, kehidupan spiritual berbaur dengan adat dan embusan nafas penduduk. Zaman berganti, Afghanistan tetap hidup dalam waktunya sendiri. Di Afghanistan, pengetahuan tentang gerak perputaran bumi dan matahari tumbuh sejak jauh di masa lampau. Ketika matahari berada di garis balik 22,5 derajad lintang utara, zemestan – musim dingin – berakhir. Musim semi datang. Bunga merah bermekaran. Itulah Naw Ruz – Hari Baru. Perayaan Naw Ruz sudah ada sejak zaman Zarathushtra, ketika Dewa Api masih dipuja, jauh sebelum datangnya agama Nasrani dan Islam. Sukacita Naw Ruz dinikmati di seluruh penjuru negeri saat peradaban Persia melintasi [...]

June 18, 2008 // 5 Comments

Bam – The Flattened Civilization

From what is left, you still can be amazed by the grandeur of an advanced ancient civilization 27 December 2003, the small town of Bam – located in southeastern Iran, about 300 kilometers from Kerman – was shocked by 6.8 Richter-scale earthquake. More than 40,000 were killed. Asides of the human casualty, Iran has another thing to grieve, as one of its civilization jewels was nothing but flattened. The ancient mud city of Bam used to be one of the strongest tourism magnets in Iran. People claimed it has 3,000 years of history, at least from the Sassanian period. Thousands of interesting old mud houses, sprawl under a giant mud citadel, giving exotic fairytale impression. I adore the old pictures of Bam, which are still hanged everywhere to remind how majestic the place used to be. But, the view of Arg-e-Bam (the ancient citadel surrounded by the mud city) today makes me weeping. The place is in severe desolation. The citadel which was appraised by Marco Polo and other ancient travelers now turned to be rubble. The old town become sad crumbling remains and debris. Workers are everywhere, hoping to restore the old town to its ancient glory, but not [...]

June 14, 2008 // 0 Comments

Kerman – Life of Afghan Children

New life for Ismail here in Iran, totally different from what he dreamed of before. Ismail, 15 years old, is another ordinary story of an ordinary Afghan who is desperate of better life outside their homeland, and then found that life is not always as beautiful as dreams. The place where Ismail now work in live in southeastern Iranian city of Kerman cannot be called fancy. When others come to the Bazaar-e-Vakil for shopping or sightseeing, Ismail and his three Afghan compatriots work underground, digging holes for septic tanks of public toilets in the old bazaar area. From the dark hole, they brought out stones and sand, to be transported somewhere else. They work from 8 morning until 5 afternoon, earning about 15 dollars per day, much a better wage than the average income in Afghanistan. These young boys came from the northern Afghan province of Takhar, tuck between Kunduz and Badakhshan, about one full day journey from Kabul. Takhar, as I visited in 2006, was a dusty province with similarly dusty provincial capital town of Taloqan, wrapped in time where turbaned men and traditionally dressed nomads from the surrounding villages and grassland fill in the weekly animal market. Was [...]

June 12, 2008 // 0 Comments

Tehran – An Old Friend

March 12, 2007 Tehran – An Old Friend An accidental meeting on Internet made me finding my old friend. Her name is Dina, but Indonesian bloggers knew her as ‘bundakirana’ (http://bundakirana.multiply.com). I actually don’t check Internet quite often except only for emails, chat, and news. But that day, when I was quite bored in an Internet Café in Esfahan, I found out her message on a traveling forum: “Soon I am going back to my home, leaving Iran, where I have spent my 8 years. I am thinking of writing a book about traveling in Iran. So I want to ask your suggestions of what should I include in my travel writing, for example what stuff that Indonesian readers might be interested.” I replied her message by saying that I was also, by accident, in Iran. I invited her to visit my blog as well. Out of my expectation Dina was enthusiastic in replying my message and even to meet me when I returned back to Tehran. She tried to arrange everything for me, but she also had some limitation of her work and family. But she asked a friend of her to host me for some days, thus we [...]

March 12, 2007 // 3 Comments

Esfahan – Arbain

20 Safar in Islamic lunar calendar is remembered by the Shiite Muslims as Arbain. In Arabic, Arbain means 40. Arbain marks the 40th day after the death of Imam Hossain (10 Muharram, known as Ashura) in the holy war of Qarbala against Muawiyyah dynasty led by Yazid. When I was in Pakistan, I followed the Shiite’s 40 days of mourning, since Ashura (10 Muharram) until Chehlum (20 Safar). In Pakistan, Arbain is known as Chehlum, a Farsi word which means ‘the fortieth’. Interestingly in Iran, the country where Farsi is spoken, they chose to use Arabic word to name the day. Chehlum in Pakistan is a bloody procession. Young boys paraded on streets of earthquake-torn town of Muzaffarabad, while whipping themselves with sharp knives known as zanjir. Check Chehlum Gallery and Chehlum in Muzaffarabad At that time I didn’t speak Farsi and I was unaware that the Shiites in Pakistan used huge amount of terms taken from Farsi language. Interestingly when I attended the procession in Iran, they preferred to use Arabic terms. In Esfahan I experienced a very different way of commemorating Arbain, the end of the mourning period. I went to the Imam Square. Most shops were closed. [...]

March 10, 2007 // 0 Comments

Tehran – Flying West

March 1, 2007 The Iran Air midnight flight from Kuala Lumpur to Tehran was surprisingly crowded. The Iranian passengers came with loads of their luggage – seemed to be enormous number of shopping goods during their holiday in Malaysia – queued in font of the check-in counters in Kuala Lumpur’s new, modern international airport. Iranians were always as what I have knew before, curious and friendly as usual. It was not hard for me to start conversations with other passengers. First there was a woman who just finished her shopping holiday. Then there was another man who had to open his carry-in luggage (as the police saw him bringing too many powders in his suitcase but it seemed that the man was too obsessed in buying milk powder, instant coffee, instant juice, and all other powder drinks – strange things to buy from a country as far away as Malaysia). While waiting in the crowded, messy lounge (somehow didn’t match the modernity of KL International Airport), I chatted with Omid, a 30 year-old-man who had been working for more than 7 years in Malaysia but spoke only a few Malays sentences. We chatted in English and Farsi. “This plane is [...]

March 1, 2007 // 1 Comment

Tashkent – Iran Visa

The embassy of the Islamic Republic of Iran in Tashkent is notorious to be very reluctant to issue visa. My Iran visa struggle has started long before since I was in Kyrgyzstan. The Tashkent Iran embassy said that they wouldn’t issue any visas for Indonesian passport holders because now Indonesians don’t need visa to go to Iran. It was strange reason anyway, because visa free for Indonesians is only for 2 weeks and difficult to extend. But my friends in Indonesian embassy in Tashkent were trying their best to help me. A staff said, “Let’s try to call them on different day. Maybe different staff will give different answer.” She was right. Another day the Indonesian embassy phoned the Iranian embassy, and it was another man who answered the call (I have never seen any women working in Iranian embassies that I have ever visited). The man said it was possible to apply with a letter from our embassy and we had to wait for 2 weeks for the result. On 12 January 2007 I have heard that the visa was ready and I could pick up. It was almost 1 month since we applied for it. I went to [...]

January 22, 2007 // 3 Comments

Khorog – The Journey to GBAO

One of the two brothers, fellow passengers on the journey to Khorog, GBAO, Tajikistan GBAO, the Gorno Badakhshanskaya Avtonomnaya Oblast (Gorno Badakhshan Autonomous Oblast) is my main reason to come to Tajikistan. It is dominated by the minority Ismaili Badakhshani Tajiks and Sunni Kyrgyz. It has majestic mountain architectures. But the main reason I want to go to this restricted area was its history. The province was supporting rebel side in the civil war of Tajikistan. The province suffered a lot from the blockade of the central government. Going to Tajikistan is already something strange for my Indonesian friends in Kabul. “Why going to Tajikistan? It is a poor country.” Going to GBAO is another thing to be objected by my Tajik friends in Dushanbe. “Why going to GBAO? It is so far and poor…” Even the Tajik diplomat in Kabul raised his eyebrows when my embassy staff insisted to get a Tajik visa together with GBAO permit. “Is he really a tourist???” For the ‘GBAO’ four letters to be added on my visa I had to pay a painful 100 dollar fee. It is a bureaucratic country, and my embassy told me to follow the rules, as for this [...]

October 18, 2006 // 0 Comments

Dushanbe – Lost Money (Again, Again, Again… Aaaargh…)

The beautiful Tajik money, Somoni, with picture of a Persian Sufi poet, Mir Said Ali Hamadani These last few days, I stayed in a hotel named Vakhsh Hotel. It is the cheapest choice I can find in the town, and it cost 10 $ per night in a room with four beds. Of course with such high price, I expected that the room was exclusively for me alone. I always locked the door and kept the key for myself. After staying a night in Bakhriddin’s dormitory, I went to my room in Vakhsh. I was surprised to see that there was a young man sleeping on one of the beds. I just put my small bag in the room, went shower, and then Internet to check the news from my embassy concerning my Kyrgyz visa application. I didn’t come back until evening, when I saw another man taking another bed. I just realized that this is a shared room, and I just left my luggage unattended for the whole day. I saw my small bag, and just at glance I knew someone had opened it. I suddenly realized what can be stolen: my money collection. And I was right. A [...]

October 10, 2006 // 1 Comment

Dushanbe – Tajikistan, First Impression

Just across the river border, even the grilled meat looks very different, despite of the same name, kabab. Oh, it also gets a Russian name here, sashlik. Before actually physically stepped on the country, I had heard, and seen Tajikistan when I was still in Afghanistan. It is the country idolized by many people in the Badakhshan province. It is the country of freedom, flourished by goods, electricity, and public services. It is the country where women can walk on the streets freely without fear of not covering properly. Now, I am in Tajikistan, seeing and experiencing what man of the northern rural Afghans dreaming about. But for me, Tajikistan is not about dream. According to a reference, the average salary of the people in the country was only 61.81 Somoni (US$ 19.93/month, 2005) and average pension was as low as 16.92 Somoni (US$ 5.23/month, 2005). Life cost is not cheap at all, at least in Dushanbe, compared to the low income statistics. Long distance transport was incredibly expensive, comparable to Afghanistan, as oil costs almost 1 US$ per litre. 93% of Tajikistan’s land is mountains, making it only 7% inhabited and potential for agriculture. It has distinctive four seasons [...]

October 8, 2006 // 0 Comments

Dushanbe – Greetings from Tajik Capital

Stamps of independent Tajikistan still use Russian Cyrillic alphabet along with Latin. They portrays local heros and culture, also other colorful cartoonish and big stamps with unrelated topics for collectors, like: outer space, Euro football competition, Elvis Presley, Bruce Lee and panda Finally, I arrived in Dushanbe, the capital of Tajikistan. The Tajik border is located across the river from the Afghan port of Shir Khan Bandar. It’s an expensive fare of 10 dollars per person to cross the river by boat. The Tajik immigration is located somewhere further, and it was another 1 dollar to reach the immigration office by bus. And they still charged 5 dollars for luggage checking (customs). I befriended the old customs officer. We talked in Farsi and he was so happy looking at Indonesian photos. Actually he already signaled me to leave soon after the custom check, that way I could avoid the 5 dollar fee. But I really didnt know about the 5 dollar game, and I insisted to get a registration slip from him, as I presumed in Central Asia if you leave the country without the slip, you will have problem. He told me that for Tajikistan, registration slip would only [...]

October 7, 2006 // 0 Comments

Herat – Back to Afghanistan Again

From Mashhad … After being 3 weeks in Iran, virtually doing nothing, now I am back into my life, traveling around, in Afghanistan again. I started quite early from a neighbourhood near the Holy Shrine of Imam Reza in Mashhad. When I was asking for direction for taking the bus, I was helped by a man from Tehran who was doing business in Jakarta and Bandung. He praised Jakarta to be a modern city and Bandung to be interesting traditional town (?). I took the direct bus from Mashhad to Herat. It was 60,000 Real. I was warned by my friend not to take the international bus, despite of the cheap price, due to the massive check from the Iranian officials toward the Afghans. It was the case coming to Iran from Afghanistan, as Iran worried about smuggling of drugs from their cute neighbor. I thought it should not be the case for the opposite way, as Afghanistan usually doesnt worry of anything coming to their country, and as today was Friday, there should be not many people lingering around the border. It was indeed a straightforward process. The luxurious Volvo AC bus only had 10 passengers, all Afghans but [...]

September 8, 2006 // 4 Comments

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