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Central Asia

[Detik.com]: Ada Apa di Asia Tengah? Ini Kata Penulis & Petualang Agustinus Wibowo

Menyibak Asia Tengah Johanes Randy Prakoso – detikTravel – Kamis, 27/10/2016 08:10 WIB Detik.com Jakarta – Membicarakan negara di Asia Tengah tentu tidak terlepas dari nama Agustinus Wibowo, penulis dan penjelajah asal Indonesia. Yuk mengenal Asia Tengah lebih jauh! Lahir di Lumajang Jawa Timur, tahun 1981, nama Agustinus Wibowo mungkin sudah dikenal publik dan traveler Indonesia secara luas lewat sejumlah tulisan perjalanannya yang mengisahkan cerita kemanusiaan dan perbatasan di negara Asia Tengah. Berbeda dengan dengan traveler kebanyakan, pria berdarah Jawa Tinghoa ini malah memiliki ketertarikan khusus akan negara Asia Tengah yang belum dikenal dan rawan isu politik. Tapi tentu bukan hanya itu, perbedaan bahasa hingga sulitnya akses visa ke negara Asia Tengah juga menjadi alasan. Namun tidak untuk Agustinus Wibowo. Untuk mendapat gambaran dan mengenal Asia Tengah lebih lanjut, detikTravel pun berbincang dengan pria yang akrab disapa Agus ini via telepon, Rabu (26/10/2016). Dari perjalananya di Asia Tengah, ada banyak hal menarik yang bisa disimak. “Konsep Asia Tengah itu sebenarnya berbeda-beda setiap definisi, ada yang menganggap Asia Tengah mulainya dari Mongolia, masuk ke China Barat dari Rusia, negara-negara pecahan Uni Soviet, kadang Afghanistan juga dimasukkan ke Asia Tengah. Jadi memang definisinya itu berbeda-beda, tapi sekarang kebanyakan orang menganggap asia tengah [...]

November 1, 2016 // 0 Comments

【户外探险】瞧那几个斯坦

Agustinus Wibowo(翁鸿鸣 印尼)>撰文 摄影 王飞宇>翻译 约两千两百年前,张骞首度踏足大宛国时,为当地发达的城市文明深深折服。同样令人叹服的还有当地的小麦和葡萄种植水平以及美酒佳酿。而最令人叫绝的自当数有天马之称的神驹—汗血宝马。 大宛国相去汉朝时中国西部约一万里,位于今费尔干纳一带,地处中亚腹地。张骞出使西域开拓了一条贯通东方与西方的贸易路线—丝绸之路。20世纪之初,古丝路沿线的中亚古国接连为俄国所吞并。俄国统治者们在中亚重划版图,一些历史上从未有过的国家就此诞生,各族自成一国:塔吉克人的国家就是塔吉克斯坦,乌兹别克族人的国家是乌兹别克斯坦,哈萨克人的国家是哈萨克斯坦,吉尔吉斯人的国家是吉尔吉斯斯坦,而土库曼人的国家则是土库曼斯坦。如今,各国竞相夸耀自己是古丝路文明最当仁不让的传承者。 世易时移,不变的是,同张骞的时代一样,对于生活于新千年的大部分中国人来说,中亚仍然是一个神秘的所在。 丝与史 印欧语系古老民族的西域文明与中国东方文明的第一次相遇是在费尔干纳。费尔干纳盆地是世界上最大的盆地,为乌兹别克斯坦、吉尔吉斯斯坦、塔吉克斯坦三国共辖。 [...]

November 12, 2015 // 0 Comments

【中国国家地理】塔吉克斯坦:群山与国界的夹缝之中

My article in Chinese National Geography, edition October 2015. This is a special edition focusing on China’s grand project: One Belt One Road, a.k.a. the “New Silk Road”, with some focus articles from the Silk Road countries, especially in Central Asia. In this edition, I have contributed two articles: Tajikistan and Afghanistan’s Wakhan Corridor. 塔吉克斯坦被称作中亚的高山之国,它近一半的国土位于帕米尔高原。其实塔吉克族并非是自古生活在山地的民族,面对如今的国家版图状况,不少塔吉克人心中有难言的苦衷。来自印度尼西亚的作者奥古斯汀是一名“中亚通”,他对塔吉克斯坦的考察和采访,能够加深我们对这个国家的认识。   撰文Agustinus Wibowo[印尼] 摄影刘辉 等 翻译王飞宇   令塔吉克人自豪的两座古城,如今却位于乌兹别克斯坦的境内 塔吉克斯坦是中亚最小的国家,面积约等于中国的辽宁省,全境的93%在山区,一半以上国土在海拔3000米以上。受地理条件所限,塔吉克斯坦境内的文明遗址寥寥无几。但塔吉克人相信自己是中亚最古老的民族,并坚信他们的历史比当今占中亚地区主流的突厥人要长得多。 [...]

October 17, 2015 // 1 Comment

#1Pic1Day: Sayap Patah | Broken Wings (Kyrgyzstan, 2006)

Broken Wings (Kyrgyzstan, 2006) A Kyrgyzstan boy on a horse is showing a wounded bird he just found on the ground. The ancestors of the Kyrgyz were nomadic people, but most of them are not anymore, or at least semi-nomadic. During the Soviet era, nomadism was regarded backward, so the Russians deliberately moved the nomads to apartment blocks. Some Kyrgyz people still preserve their nomadic culture, staying inside yurts in the steppes during the summer months, then move to their concrete houses in winter. The capability of horse riding, which used to be in their blood, now is also relatively decreasing. Sayap Patah (Kirgizstan, 2006) Seorang bocah berkuda di Kirgizstan menunjukkan seekor burung terluka yang ditemukannya. Nenek moyang bangsa Kirgiz adalah bangsa nomaden, tetapi sekarang mereka sudah semi-nomaden, terlebih lagi sejak datangnya orang Rusia yang menganggap nomadisme adalah keterbelakangan, dan memindahkan para penggembala ke blok-blok apartemen. Beberapa orang Kirgiz yang masih melestarikan gaya hidup semi-nomadisme, tinggal di padang rumput pada musim panas, dan kembali ke rumah bangunan di musim dingin. Kemahiran dalam berkuda, yang semula adalah kultur yang mendarah daging, kini juga semakin berkurang. [...]

February 28, 2014 // 0 Comments

#1Pic1Day: Jam Istirahat | Rest Hour (Kyrgyzstan, 2006)

Rest Hour (Kyrgyzstan, 2006) School boys in Toktogul, a small town in Kyrgyzstan, are playing in the school playground during rest hour. Ex-Soviet countries generally have high coverage of education. Even the poorest nations have illiteracy rate next to zero. The rural school in Toktogul have somehow adopted international system, receive Peace Corps volunteers and aid from Soros Foundation from the States, and their students also often win national-level awards. Jam Istirahat (Kirgizstan, 2006) Bocah-bocah sekolah di Toktogul, sebuah kota kecil di Kirgizstan, sedang bermain di halaman sekolah pada saat jam istirahat. Negara-negara pecahan Uni Soviet umumnya memiliki pendidikan yang merata, bahkan untuk negara yang paling miskin pun hampir tidak ada penduduk yang tidak bisa baca tulis. Sekolah desa di Toktogul ini bahkan mengadopsi sistem pendidikan internasional dan para siswanya sering meraih penghargaan di tingkat nasional. [...]

February 27, 2014 // 5 Comments

#1Pic1Day: Bahasa Inggris di Dusun | Rural English (Kyrgyzstan, 2006)

Rural English (Kyrgyzstan, 2006) Satina is an English teacher in Toktogul, a very small town (in Kyrgyzstan standard) in central part of the country. The country is one among few Central Asian countries which accept Peace Corps volunteers from the States. Most of the volunteers were English teachers. Kyrgyzstan also received aid for education sector from the Soros Foundation. Every year or two, Toktogul receives one or two English teacher volunteers from the States, who then work together with local teachers like Satina. Their teaching material was imported directly from the States, full of up to date information and cultural background. America is no more too far away for them, even for those who live in forgotten rural villages like this one. Bahasa Inggris di Dusun (Kirgizstan, 2006) Satina adalah seorang guru bahasa Inggris di kota kecil Kirgizstan, Toktogul. Kirgizstan adalah salah satu negara di Asia Tengah yang menerima kedatangan relawan Peace Corps dari Amerika Serikat, mayoritas sebagai guru bahasa Inggris, dan menerima banyak bantuan pendidikan dari Soros Foundation. Setiap tahun, Toktogul menerima satu atau dua relawan pengajar dari Amerika, bekerja sama dengan guru lokal seperti Satina. Bahan materi pelajaran mereka berasal dari Amerika Serikat, lengkap dengan penjelasan budaya yang [...]

February 26, 2014 // 0 Comments

#1Pic1Day: Peninggalan Jalur Sutra | Remnants of the Silk Road (Kyrgyzstan, 2006)

Remnants of the Silk Road (Kyrgyzstan, 2006) Kyrgyzstan was passed by the Silk Road, the medieval trading routes connecting China and Europe. Unlike its neighbor Uzbekistan, which was blessed by ancient cities and grandeur historical architectural heritages, Kyrgyzstan was the place of nomadic tribes and has not so much of that kind of heritages. One among few the country still has is the Minaret of Burana, remnants from the old city of Balasagun from the 9th century. This minaret was originally 45 meter high, but destroyed by an earthquake, only 25 meter left. Peninggalan Jalur Sutra (Kirgizstan, 2006) Kirgizstan juga termasuk daerah perlintasan Jalur Sutra, jalur perdagangan yang menghubungkan China dengan Eropa di Abad Pertengahan. Tidak seperti negara tetangganya, Uzbekistan yang dipenuhi kota-kota dengan bangunan megah peninggalan Jalur Sutra, Kirgizstan yang tempat tinggalnya bangsa nomaden tidak memiliki banyak peninggalan megah dari zaman itu. Salah satu yang masih berdiri hingga hari ini adalah Menara Burana, peninggalan dari kota kuno Balasagun pada abad ke-9. Menara ini semula tingginya 45 meter, tetapi hancur karena gempa dan tersisa hanya 25 meter.   [...]

February 25, 2014 // 1 Comment

#1Pic1Day: Lenin di Balik Terali | Lenin Behind Bars (Kyrgyzstan, 2006)

Lenin Behind Bars (Kyrgyzstan, 2006) Since the fall of Soviet Union followed by the independence of the new republics in Central Asia, symbols of communism had been deliberately erased along with the wave of nationalism and awareness of being independent nations. The statues of Lenin in many cities were smacked down and replaced; the Russian-style street names were replaced with those of local heroes or local concepts. Kyrgyzstan was among the countries with strong Russian influence. The Lenin Street in Osh was politely moved to another street, and while not common, Toktogul still has Lenin statue, hidden behind bars in a lonely park. Lenin di Balik Terali (Kirgizstan, 2006) Sejak runtuhnya Uni Soviet dan merdekanya republik-republik baru di Asia Tengah, simbol-simbol komunisme dihapus dengan sengaja seiring dengan bangkitnya nasionalisme dan kesadaran sebagai negeri merdeka. Patung-patung Lenin dirobohkan, nama-nama jalan yang berbau Rusia diganti nama-nama lokal. Kirgizstan dan Kazakhstan adalah dua negara yang cukup kental pengaruh Rusianya. Jalan Lenin di Osh hanya dipindah lokasinya, dan patung Lenin di dusun Toktogul ini dipinggirkan ke balik terali di taman. [...]

February 24, 2014 // 0 Comments

Garis Batas 1 : Visa oh Visa

Tajikistan, negeri eksotis di pelosok Asia Tengah, menjanjikan petualangan yang menantang.(AGUSTINUS WIBOWO) Tajikistan, negeri eksotis di pelosok Asia Tengah, menjanjikan petualangan yang menantang.(AGUSTINUS WIBOWO) Empat bulan sudah saya mengarungi Afghanistan, hidup dalam kegelapgulitaan negeri yang masih babak belur dihajar perang berkepanjangan, melintasi gunung-gunung pasir dan padang berdebu, mencicip teh hangat di pagi hari bersama pria-pria bersurban, dan wajah perempuan hampir sama sekali lenyap dalam benak saya. Empat bulan yang penuh petualangan, impian, penderitaan, dan kebahagiaan. Sudah tiba saatnya untuk meneruskan perjalanan ke bagian lain dunia ini, ke negeri-negeri tersembunyi di pedalaman Asia Tengah. Ada Tajikistan, negaranya orang Tajik. Kyrgyzstan, negaranya orang Kirghiz. Kazakhstan, Uzbekistan, Turkmenistan, masing-masing punyanya orang Kazakh, Uzbek, dan Turkmen. Semua ‘stan’ ini satu per satu bermunculan di atas peta dunia tahun 1991, mengiring buyarnya adikuasa Uni Soviet. Semuanya adalah negara yang tersembunyi di tengah benua raksasa Eurasia, terkunci bumi, jauh dari lautan mana pun. Misterius, unik, eksotik. Sebagai bekas Uni Soviet yang terkenal dengan bengisnya birokrasi, visa untuk masuk ke negara-negara itu tidak mudah. Apalagi untuk paspor Indonesia. Tajikistan adalah pintu masuk paling gampang bagi orang Indonesia, karena negara ini sudah memberlakukan visa on arrival untuk kedatangan dengan pesawat terbang. Tetapi, karena [...]

June 5, 2013 // 7 Comments

Garis Batas – Perjalanan di Negeri-Negeri Asia Tengah (Borderlines)

My second published travel writing book, on journey to Central Asian countries (The “Stans”). Indonesian language. Borderlines – Journey to the Central Asian States Everyday, Afghan villagers stare to “a foreign country” which is just a river away. They look at passing cars, without even once experiencing sitting inside the vehicles. They look at Russian-style villas, while they live in dark mud and stone houses. They look at girls in tight jeans, while their own women are illiterate and have no freedom to travel. The country across the river seems magnificent—a magnificent fantasy. The same fantasy brings Agustinus Wibowo travel to the mysterious Central Asian states. Tajikistan. Kyrgyzstan. Kazakhstan. Uzbekistan. Turkmenistan. The “Stan brothers”. This journey will not only bring you step on snowy mountains, walk accross borderless steppes, adsorbing the greatness of traditions and the glowing Silk Road civilization, or having nostalgy with Soviet Union communism symbols, but also finding out the mystery of fate of human beings who are always being separated in the boxes of borderlines. Paperback, 528 pages Published April 14th 2011 by Gramedia Pustaka Utama ISBN13 9789792268843 primary language Indonesian original title Garis Batas: Perjalanan di Negeri-Negeri Asia Tengah url http://www.gramedia.com/buku-detail/84515/Garis-Batas ————– Garis Batas: Perjalanan [...]

April 25, 2011 // 4 Comments

The Jakarta Globe (2011): An Indonesian’s Lust for Asian Travel

An Indonesian’s Lust for Asian Travel Lisa Siregar | May 26, 2011 http://www.thejakartaglobe.com/lifeandtimes/an-indonesians-lust-for-asian-travel/443364 For Agustinus Wibowo, a travel writer who has explored and lived in some of the most dangerous parts of Central Asia, traveling is all about gaining fresh perspectives — even if it means going unshowered for months or getting kicked out of an Afghan man’s house for refusing the generous offer of a male prostitute. “It’s not about the number of stamps in your passport. It’s the traveler’s point of view that matters,” he said last week during the launch of his new travel book, “Garis Batas” (“Borderlines”). He showed up to the launch proudly wearing a white flowing tunic known as a shalwar kameez from Afghanistan, where he had lived for several years. Agustinus, now a translator based in Beijing, is famed for his travel columns published in Kompas newspaper as well as his first book, “Selimut Debu” (“Blanket of Dust”), published in January last year. Most people like holidays in luxurious, or at the very least comfortable, spots. Agustinus is a bit more adventurous. His new book, for example, details his sometimes nightmarish experiences in Tajikistan, Kazakhstan, Kyrgyzstan, Turkmenistan and Uzbekistan. Once, his things were [...]

March 26, 2011 // 0 Comments

Ashgabat – The Golden Age

“It is not real gold. Every year, in January, workers have to replenish the color. Is that real gold, then?” -Jeyhun, A student from Turkmenabat The Golden Man At this hazy day with some degrees of rain, the Ashgabat train station was full of people queuing for tickets. It was messy. There were 8 counters, all with a horde of people trying to be the first in front of the small window, where behind the glass, a Turkmen lady – the ticket seller, shouting harshly to the people. It was typical of ex-Soviet service. The ticket sellers are the kings. The buyers should be nice to be served. There were lockets for same-day departures, and pre-booking. I was queuing in front of a locket just to be told I should go to another counter for pre-booking. Another 30 minutes were wasted. The ticket lady said that all tickets for Turkmenabat for day-after-tomorrow departure were already sold out. Not gave up, I went to another counter for last try. I was worrying though, as the closer it was to Navruz – the Persian and Central Asian New Year – transports were hard to come by. The third ticket lady told me [...]

March 17, 2007 // 1 Comment

Tahskent – Ticket to Indonesia

The Uzbekistan Airways The sudden call from Indonesia does change my travel plan drastically. I decide to go home as soon as possible. My father suffers from heart attack and I know he wants to see me as he worries much about my recent being as ‘a homeless wanderer’. I do miss my parents. Almost every night I dream about them, and these dreams make me nothing but painful. I miss them and I know they do the same. Family relation is more like mythical telepathic connection. “Just go home. What else you need to think? Before you regret for your whole life,” said Rosalina Tobing, a friend of mine who works in the Indonesian embassy. The word regret does have a very strong power. I still have chance to go home, so why not? Rosalina suggested me to buy a ticket as soon as possible. Luckily now there is a promotion of Uzbek Airways which is commemorating its 15th anniversary, and a ticket to Bangkok or Kuala Lumpur costs only 299 US$ payable only in Uzbek sum (the biggest value of Uzbek sum is less than a dollar). With two big piles of Uzbek money that I got from [...]

January 24, 2007 // 1 Comment

Osh – Goodbye Tajikistan

Finally… the truck. And a new country Maybe it was because of the falling stars. When I woke up very early, about 7, as I couldn’t sleep at all the whole night, I saw two trucks were having custom check in Khurshid’s border post. These were trucks owned by Kyrgyz drivers from Kyrgyzstan. My Kyrgyz host helped me with a negotiation (‘chakchak’ in Tajik) with the drivers, and they agreed to take me as far as Sary Tash for 20 Somoni. Sary Tash would be the first Kyrgyzstan city to be approached from here. I was not the only passengers of the trucks. There was already an old Kyrgyz man with his family. The trucks were taking sheep and yaks. The drivers didn’t have document to transport these animals to Kyrgyzstan, so the numerous checkpoints along the road had to be really fuelled by money to smooth up the way. This is the way the business done. Tajikistan’s Pamir region is famous of its animal products, raised by the Kyrgyz and Pamiri Tajik herders. Animals are brought from the mountain areas in GBAO to the bazaar city of Osh in south Kyrgyzstan, where they may gain profit. Then to return [...]

November 4, 2006 // 0 Comments

Karakul – the Giant Death Lake

The giant death lake of Kara Kul. Karakul in Kyrgyz language means ‘black lake’. The lake itself is not black. In fact, this huge water body was deep blue when the sky is friendly, and turns to be grey when the sun chooses to hide behind the clouds. But the life is as dark as its name. There is no life at all in this huge lake. The lake has high concentration of salt. But despite of the salt, the lake also freezes in winter. The village next to the lake, bears the same name, is a Kyrgyz settlement with only one Tajik man inhabitant – a policeman. I was supposed to stay with the Tajik policeman, as it’s the only chance for me to communicate with my Persian knowledge. But when I arrived there, the Tajik man had left to Khorog. I stayed with a Kyrgyz family, an Acted-arranged guest house. They don’t speak Tajik, but the husband know little bit and can sing the national anthem proudly, “Zindabosh e vatan Tajikistan e azadi man (Long Live o Fatherland, My Free Tajikistan!)” He didn’t understand the meaning of the proud anthem though. Tildahan, the wife, is a young woman, [...]

November 2, 2006 // 0 Comments

Karakul – Out of Murghab

A new day, and a new month, starts in Murghab The new month has just started, and I have only 4 days left on my visa. I met these two guys in the bazaar of Murghab, one with visa expiring today (November 1). The guys were from America and Israel, and they have been waiting for onward travel to Kyrgyzstan. They were there in the bazaar yesterday but failed to depart. Today is the second day (and supposed to be the last day) attempt. Murghab is somehow a depressing place to wait for transport. As now the oil price has skyrocketed, one’s a month salary is only enough to cover the distance from Murghab to Osh or to Khorog in a public transport for one time. People don’t travel anywhere. There are many drivers but not passengers. The drivers hang around the bazaar the whole day to get passengers, and except the two travelers, and me, there is nobody else to share the cost. Some drivers even didn’t have petrol for their vehicles. The cost is always calculated in terms of liters of oil, with 3.40 Somoni/liter standard in Murghab. In Langar I even saw a driver asked the passengers [...]

November 1, 2006 // 0 Comments

Murgab – 100 Questions and Answers about Tajik Presidential Election

Browsing through the list of candidates A friend of mine, Rosalina Tobing, works in social political section of the Embassy of Republic of Indonesia in Tashkent, Uzbekistan. She often gets assignments to make reports about political moments in Central Asia. These days, the thing which people in Tajikistan like to talk about was the presidential election which is going to happen on November 6, 2006. Besides of this, people in GBAO also like to know more about the spiritual leader Aga Khan who visit the area together with the president. Rosalina asked me to get a book for our embassy’s reference, entitled ‘100 Questions and Answers about Tajikistan Presidential Election”. The book is as mythical as the 1001 Nights. I couldn’t find anywhere in Tajikistan (maybe because I always bumped into wrong places all time) but in election booths in the villages in GBAO. First I saw the book in the community hall , which was magically turned to be an election booth, in Vrang. I tried to ask permission to photocopy it, but the chief of election committee said there was no photocopy machine at all in the village. When I started to take photos of the book with [...]

October 30, 2006 // 0 Comments

Murghab – The Dudkhoda’s Family

Boys of Murghab, in front of Tajik banner with the tricolor flag and coat-of-arms, of which important element is a snow mountain “Pamir will be better…. Pamir will be better….” – Dudkhoda My first impression of this 39 year old Tajik man was really not so good. this man tried to hug me and kiss me when I was sleeping next to him under the same blanket on the floor in the Kyrgyz restaurant in alichur packed by the Kyrgyz drivers. He also made me to pay his bills in the restaurant. But later I found that he had story worth to tell. He arranged for me a seat in the Kyrgyz truck, along with him, who returned to his home in Murghab. He was actually a passenger of the truck, not being able to pay the ride with money but offered the drivers a dinner in his hosue in Murghab. I came along with him, sitting along the way to Murghab (100 km) for free. Just near Murghab, there were two military checkpoint. The Kyrgyz drivers failed to do registration and they became easy target of the military man in the small dormitory. “Hey, brother, you should follow the [...]

October 29, 2006 // 0 Comments

Tughoz – Aliboy Family Aliboy family

The Aliboy family His name is Tuloev Aliboy Jumakhanovich, an unemployed man who sometimes work as driver, 33 years old. He greeted me, “We, Ismailis, dont go for hajj in Mecca. We dont waste our money for hajj. But our leader says, providing shelter and food for poor traveller, the mosafers, that is our hajj pilgrimage.” That is the reason of the hospitality of the Ismailis. No matter that there is no even wheat to make bread, being hospitable to a guest is compulsory. Aliboy sheltered me in his traditional house. There were his old father, Jumakhan, 72 years old, the old mother, sisters, cousins, and children in his little house. People of the Pamir are said to have long ages, like Jumakhan’s grand father who lived until 120 years old of age. Maybe it was because of the pure water. Aliboy had no job, even though he had a car. Here we could observe how live reduced dramatically to its modest form since the breakaway of the USSR. From a car owner to be an unemployed whou couldnt sustain sufficient income for basic needs, life have never been easy afterwards. The situation in Tajikistan was much worsened by the [...]

October 24, 2006 // 0 Comments

Ishkashim – Bodurbekov Family

Alisher (a.k.a Muhammad Bodurbekov) with his cousin “Now you are not guest anymore. You are part of our family. Welcome!” – Muhammad Bodurbekov Since the first minute I arrived in Ishkashim, I was impressed by the hospitality of the people in the Wakhan Valley. I was invited by Muhammad Bodurbekov, 29, to his house in the village. Muhammad, alias Alisher, worked in Dushanbe in Aga Khan’s NGO, MSDSP. He had classes in Khorog and he then had chance to see his family in Ishkashim. He spent a month in the UK for his higher education, and he still maintained his British accent. Alisher was an educated professional and he had so many things to discuss. So before starting, let’s sit on the ‘kurpacha’, the guest welcome matress, which Alisher laid between the pillars of Ali and Muhammad. Sitting on the kurpacha symbolized the acceptance of the welcome gesture from the host. In this house there were Alisher’s father, mother, sister, and some nephews and nieces. Alisher sister was married already but she was staying in her parents’ house. She was married to a man from Shegnon and according to the Shegnon tradition, the first child should be born in the [...]

October 22, 2006 // 0 Comments

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