Garuda

Indonesia: The Dollar Worshipers

I am Indonesian. I had to go abroad urgently. Thinking myself a nationalist, I automatically logged into the website of the national carrier—my pride—Garuda Indonesia. I did the e-booking for the international flight ticket. I was surprised that all prices were quoted in US Dollars, instead of in my own currency, Rupiah. I was confused, but I had to pay anyway. I got more confused that none of my national bank debit cards was accepted for the payment. Garuda only wanted Credit Card with the international logo of Visa or Mastercard. I was heartbroken. Our country’s national airline refused our own money and denied our own national banks. Alas. My Credit Card was over limit. I rushed to a private tour agent. I was relieved because they said they could help. But they quoted a price much more expensive than the one I saw earlier on the website. And yes, it was also in US dollars. I asked whether I could pay in rupiah, or use my debit cards. No, they said. Better bring us crispy US dollar bills, otherwise you have to agree with our unfavorable exchange rate. I ran to the nearby ATM, withdrew about a hundred pieces [...]

June 5, 2015 // 13 Comments

Byron Bay, July 31, 2014: A Nanny State?

“Australia is a country only for old people,” says Celine, a 22-year-old Indonesian student sitting next to me in a Qantas flight to Sydney. Celine lives in a suburb of Melbourne, and has been there for four years majoring food technology. “After 5 pm all shops are closed and the towns are deserted. There is absolutely no fun.” I am on my way to Gold Coast, to attend Byron Bay Writers Festival tomorrow; while Celine is heading to Melbourne and she will have some hours of transit in Sydney. Celine grumbles as she has no choice but to take this Qantas flight. She usually takes the Indonesian carrier, Garuda, which offers the only direct flight from Jakarta to Melbourne. But Garuda tickets are sold out, and only Qantas is available for her. But as I am a first timer to Qantas, I am very excited with this flight. In fact, I am first timer to any Western airlines. And I have to admit, I am shocked to see that all passengers were greeted by an overweight stewardess with thick lips wearing glossy lipsticks, whose age I bet around half a century. “Welcome, Sir,” she says with a friendly smile. In [...]

August 1, 2014 // 26 Comments

Titik Nol 37: Kota Cantik

Lapangan Durbar di Patan (AGUSTINUS WIBOWO) Pagi-pagi sekali, keluarga Pushkar Baral sudah sibuk sekali. Istrinya bangun sejak subuh, sibuk menyiapkan sarapan untuk keluarganya. Anak-anak bersiap masuk sekolah. Pushkar dan istrinya siap-siap berangkat kerja. Hari ini hari Minggu, tetapi bagi orang Nepal hari ini adalah hari kerja biasa. Dalam seminggu, hanya hari Sabtu mereka bisa beristirahat. Sementara Pushkar dan istrinya berangkat ke kantor, saya sendirian berkeliling bagian kuno kota Patan. Patan hanya lima kilometer jauhnya dari Kathmandu, tetapi dulunya Patan adalah ibu kota dari kerajaan terpisah, berpasukan tangguh, dan berkebudayaan tinggi. Semuanya itu masih nampak jelas dari Lapangan Darbar yang dipunyai Patan. Gaya arsitektur bangunan di sini lebih padat, rapi, dan cantik. Patung Dewa Garud (Garuda) yang bersembah di atas tiang memberi penghormatan ke arah kuil suci. Tak salah jika nama lain Patan lebih putis – Lalitpur, atau ‘kota cantik’.. Dibandingkan Lapangan Darbar Kathmandu, Darbar Patan penuh sesak oleh bangunan megah. Saya tak ingat lagi nama-nama bangunan di sini. Terlalu banyak. Semuanya adalah maha karya arsitektur bangsa Newa yang mendiami Lembah Kathmandu, baik Budha maupun Hindu. Setelah datang dari Tibet, saya begitu tertarik melihat kehidupan umat Budha di Nepal. Sang Budha Gautama lahir di Lumbini, di Nepal bagian selatan. Tetapi di [...]

June 23, 2014 // 2 Comments

Titik Nol 10: Kora

Kailash menjulang di balik kibaran bendera doa. (AGUSTINUS WIBOWO) Orang Hindu menyebutnya Kailash. Orang Tibet menyebutnya Permata Agung. Dalam bahasa Mandarin namanya Shenshan, Gunung Dewa. Menjulang pada ketinggian 6638 meter, bertudung langit malam yang cerah. Ribuan bintang bertabut di angkasa raya. Langit menangkup ke seluruh batas cakrawala. Lolongan anjing bersahut-sahutan. Bulan bulat purnama. Keheningan malam membungkus Darchen. “Kamu harus banyak istirahat,” kata Xiao Wang, pria Sichuan pemilik warung, “keliling Gunung Dewa bukan perjalanan mudah. Kalau dalam perjalanan nanti lelah, jangan dipaksa. Di atas sana oksigen sangat tipis.” Xiao Wang kemudian menceritakan tentang peziarah India yang bertubuh tambun dan mati di puncak sana. Tetapi karena ia Hindu, penduduk Tibet tak mengizinkan mayatnya dibakar di sini. Jenazah pria malang itu dibawa pulang lagi ke negaranya, melalui perjalanan panjang melintasi barisan gunung suci. “Malangkah pria itu? Sama sekali tidak,” lanjut Xiao Wang, “bagi mereka yang percaya, mati di tempat sesuci ini adalah berkah yang tiada terkira.” Sejak China mengibarkan benderanya di Tibet, Dalai Lama mengungsi, hubungan China-India terus memburuk, kesempatan bagi orang Hindu India untuk sekadar melihat wajah Kailash – tempat paling suci dalam agama mereka – sangat tipis. Hanya mereka yang teramat sangat beruntung yang bisa memperoleh visa datang ke sini. Kailash [...]

May 14, 2014 // 2 Comments