Kathmandu – Living Goddess

Thamel Guesthouse 90 NRs

Today is the peak of the celebration of Indra Jatra Festival, the biggest event in Kathmandu throughout the year. Before talking about this festival, let’s see the unique habit of Nepali Hindus to have a living goddess. This living goddess is called as Kumari Devi, a young pre-puberty girl chosen through a set of difficult tests. This girl then become the living goddess, staying in a palace, Kumari Bahal, just south the Hanoman Dhoka Royal Palace. The girl is then worshipped as a god by the people, and she possesses many spiritual powers. Non Hindus are not allowed to even step in into the Kumari Bahal. Taking pictures of her is strictly prohibited. The girl, once she arrived to her first day of puberty, is not a goddess anymore, and another Kumari Devi should be chosen again. It is said that it’s not good to marry an ex-Kumari, as the husband will be in misfortune. But some says that the Kumari is used to be spoilt during her young ages, and when she grows to be a woman, it will be difficult for the men to fulfill her wish. Well, it’s just a rumour though.

During the Indra Jatra festival, Kumari Devi, accompanied by other two living goddesses: Bhairab and Ganesh, are carried in three huge chariots, marching the small alleys of Kathmandu. The start of the ceremony was when the Kumari, Bhairab, and Ganesh are taken into the chariots from their palace. The famous Nepal Gurkha warriors and great looking Nepal army are standing in the Durbar Square, and their duty is to protect Kumaris and also the royal family of Nepal and diplomatic guests, who also attend the ceremony. Today it was extremely crowded, as thousands of people poured into the square, and everybody was curious of what happening. It was told that the ceremony started at noon, but in fact it started at 3 o’clock. There were special places for press and tourists, as well as for Nepali visitors.

In the evening the Kumari, Bhairab, and Ganesh arrived in the Durbar square again after being marched throughout the town. Now it is time for the visitors to ask for fortune by touching the holy chariots, and also time for tourists (Nepali and foreigners) to take pictures of the living goddesses. The three young girls were surviving the 2 hours of photography session in the Durbar Square (and everybody was using flash), and they look extremely exhausted when the guards then bring them back to the palace.

And during Indra Jatra festival, the statue of Bhairab (Kala or Barong in Balinese tradition) will spour “chang” (traditional alcohol) and people will fight to drink it. It is said that the alcohol is a cleansing, as people won’t get sick at all.

And mind you, the square is extremely crowded. Beware of pickpockets, as this is their harvesting time of a year