Kyrgyz

【中国国家地理】瓦罕走廊：被遗忘的丝绸之路

Article published in Chinese National Geography, October 2015, on Afghanistan’s forgotten Wakhan Corridor. The Wakhan Corridor of Afghanistan is the last piece of the ancient Silk Road, which was still operating few decades ago, but now has turned into an isolated world as it’s confined by the international borders. 古丝绸之路如同一棵大树错综庞杂的根系，铺展于东西方之间。在所有丝路古道中，没有哪条比瓦罕走廊更富神秘色彩的了，它藏身于阿富汗深处，像是硬贴在阿富汗脸上的一条舌头。随着边界的关闭，它从传奇商道变成世界上最偏远难达的地区之一。本文作者在瓦罕走廊进行了长达3年的探访，用鲜活的文字为您揭开瓦罕走廊的神秘面纱。撰文/Agustinus Wibowo(印尼) 翻译/王飞宇伊什卡希姆是进入瓦罕走廊的唯一门户伊什卡希姆是阿富汗山区一个僻静而慢节奏的村庄，遍地泥沼尘沙，这里是通往瓦罕走廊的入口。村子北边的喷赤河翻滚着怒涛，巨大的涛声淹没了世间一切声响。它是阿姆河的支流，也是阿富汗与苏联解体后形成的中亚各国之间的分界线。喷赤河就像一面镜子，分隔开阿富汗和塔吉克斯坦的山峦，两国的村落呈镜像分布在河流两岸。阿富汗伊什卡希姆的“双胞胎姐妹”是塔吉克斯坦山间一个同样叫做伊什卡希姆的村庄。 [...]

November 17, 2015 // 0 Comments

#1Pic1Day: The Love We Share #9 (Afghanistan, 2008)

The Love We Share #9 (Afghanistan, 2008) Duty—a little boy is accompanying her mother sewing, in a herder settlement of the Kyrgyz nomads, Pamir mountains, Afghanistan. Kewajiban—seorang bocah menemani ibunya menjahit, di daerah permukiman penggembala Kyrgyz, pegunungan Pamir, Afghanistan [...]

March 13, 2014 // 1 Comment

#1Pic1Day: The Love We Share #8 (Afghanistan, 2008)

The Love We Share #8 (Afghanistan, 2008) Beauty and the Beast—A Kyrgyz mother in Pamir mountains, Afghanistan, is combing the hair of her daughter she just washed. Harus Bersih—Ibu Kyrgyz di pegunungan Pamir, Afghanistan sedang menyisir rambut putrinya yang baru saja dicuci. [...]

March 12, 2014 // 0 Comments

#1Pic1Day: The Love We Share #6 (Afghanistan, 2008)

The Love We Share #6 (Afghanistan, 2008) A Warmth Called Home—young Kyrgyz kids in Pamir Mountains, Afghanistan, are peeping from inside their yurt. Kehangatan Rumah—bocah-bocah Kyrgyz di pegunungan Pamir, Afghanistan, mengintip dari dalam kemah yurt mereka. [...]

March 10, 2014 // 1 Comment

#1Pic1Day: The Love We Share #2 (Afghanistan, 2008)

The Love We Share #2 (Afghanistan, 2008) Mom’s Hug—a young girl of a shepherd family is hiding her face in her mom’s hug, in Pamir, Northern Afghanistan Pelukan ibu—seorang gadis keluarga penggembala menyembunyikan wajahnya di balik pelukan ibu, di Pamir, Afghanistan utara. [...]

March 4, 2014 // 0 Comments

#1Pic1Day: Pelajar | Student (Little Pamir, Afghanistan, 2008)

Student (Little Pamir, Afghanistan, 2008) A Pamir Kirghiz girl studies Dari language in school tent in Little Pamir, which is the first school ever established in Pamir, in summer 2008. As there is not yet building and facility provided, the school is held in people’s tents and also nomadic following the movement of the nomadic tribe. Pelajar (Pamir Kecil, Afghanistan, 2008) Seorang gadis Kirgiz dari Pamir Afghanistan sedang belajar bahasa Dari di tenda sekolah, yang merupakan sekolah pertama dalam sejarah yang didirikan di Pamir Kecil pada musim panas 2008. Karena ketiadaan bangunan dan fasilitas lainnya, kegiatan belajar diselenggarakan di dalam tenda penduduk, dan juga berpindah-pindah mengikuti gaya hidup suku-suku nomaden. [...]

October 18, 2013 // 1 Comment

#1Pic1Day: Siapa Itu di Luar? | Who’s Out There? (Little Pamir, Afghanistan, 2008)

Who’s Out There? (Little Pamir, Afghanistan, 2008) Some little kids from a settlement in Little Pamir were curious on the guests coming to their yurt. Raised in such harsh natural environment, Afghan Kyrgyz children have adapted and grabbed certain abilities to live in such environment. For example, they already know how to ride donkeys and horses since a very young age. Siapa Itu di Luar? (Pamir Kecil, Afghanistan, 2008) Beberapa bocah kecil dari permukiman di Pamir Kecil tampak penasaran terhadap para tamu yang berkunjung ke tenda mereka. Anak-anak ini dibesarkan dalam lingkungan alam yang kejam, sehingga telah beradaptasi dan memiliki kemampuan spesial untuk bisa hidup dalam lingkungan seperti itu. Misalnya, mereka sudah bisa mengendarai keledai dan kuda pada usia yang sangat dini. [...]

October 17, 2013 // 4 Comments

#1Pic1Day: Musim Dingin Sepanjang Tahun | Winter throughout the Year (Little Pamir, Afghanistan, 2008)

Winter throughout the Year (Little Pamir, Afghanistan, 2008) A Kyrgyz boy brings his camels to grassland. The Afghan Kirghiz ethnic still maintain the disappearing nomadic way of life at Afghan Pamir, the tip of Afghan Wakhan Corridor bordering with China, Tajikistan, and Pakistan, at elevation more than 4,000 meter. The place, known as bam-e-dunya or Roof of the World, is described by Marco Polo as a place where the snow may come at any time of the year and where birds cannot fly through due to its height. In summer, snowfall is not uncommon. Musim Dingin Sepanjang Tahun (Pamir Kecil, Afghanistan, 2008) Seorang bocah Kirgiz sedang menggiring unta-untanya ke padang. Orang Kirgiz di Afghanistan masih mempertahankan tradisi nomaden, mereka mendiami Pamir Afghan, pada ketinggian 4.000 meter dan terletak di ujung Koridor Wakhan dan berbatasan dan langsung dengan China, Tajikistan, dan Pakistan. Tempat ini dikenal sebagai bam-i-dunyo, atau Atap Dunia, dan dideskripsikan oleh Marco Polo sebagai wilayah di mana salju bisa turun kapan saja dan burung pun tidak bisa terbang di atasnya saking tingginya. Salju di musim panas sama sekali bukan hal yang luar biasa. [...]

October 16, 2013 // 4 Comments

#1Pic1Day: Gadis Ataukah Nyonya, Lihatlah dari Kerudungnya | Available or Not, Just See the Veil (Little Pamir, Afghanistan, 2008)

Available or Not, Just See the Veil (Little Pamir, Afghanistan, 2008) The Afghan Kirghiz ethnic still preserve traditional Kyrgyz costumes, which already disappeared in the Republic of Kyrgyzstan. The veil (jooluk) of Kyrgyz women shows their marital status. Red means unmarried and white means married. Gadis Ataukah Nyonya, Lihatlah dari Kerudungnya (Pamir Kecil, Afghanistan, 2008) Orang-orang Kirgiz yang mendiami Afghanistan masih mempertahankan tradisi berpakaian Kirgiz, yang sekarang sudah sangat langka bahkan di negara Kirgizstan. Kerudung para perempuan disebut sebagai jooluk, juga berfungsi untuk menunjukkan status perkawinan. Kerudung merah berarti gadis, kerudung putih berarti sudah menikah. [...]

October 15, 2013 // 1 Comment

#1Pic1Day: Permukiman Para Pengelana | The Nomad’s Settlement (Little Pamir, Afghanistan, 2008)

The Nomad’s Settlement (Little Pamir, Afghanistan, 2008) This is a nomadic settlement in Little Pamir. During the summer months, the Kyrgyz live in tents (ooy), while in winter they stay in concrete mud houses. The Kyrgyz still maintain disappearing nomadic way of live, moving into different location of the grassland depending on seasons of the year, on average four different places in a year. Permukiman Para Pengelana (Pamir Kecil, Afghanistan, 2008) Ini adalah sebuah permukiman suku nomaden Kirgiz di Pamir Kecil. Sepanjang musim panas, orang-orang Kirgiz tinggal di dalam tenda (ooy), sementara di musim dingin mereka berpindah ke bangunan padat yang terbuat dari lempung dan kayu. Orang Kirgiz masih mempertahankan gaya hidup nomaden yang sekarang sudah semakin langka. Mereka berpindah dari satu tempat ke tempat lain di padang luas, mengikuti pergantian musim. Rata-rata mereka berpindah ke empat lokasi berbeda dalam setahun. [...]

October 14, 2013 // 4 Comments

#1Pic1Day: Kehidupan Nomaden | Nomadic Life (Little Pamir, Afghanistan, 2008)

Nomadic Life (Little Pamir, Afghanistan, 2008) Kyrgyz men prepare to move. Yurt, or tent, or ooy in their language, is the traditional home of nomadic Kyrgyz and is highly portable. The skeleton is made of wood, bought from neighboring countries or traveling traders. The top of yurt is a circle, where the sunshine passes through. This roof circle hole is now used on the flag and national emblem of the Republic of Kyrgyzstan. Kehidupan Nomaden (Pamir Kecil, Afghanistan, 2008) Orang-orang Kirgiz ini sedang bersiap untuk berpindah. Yurt, tenda atau ooy dalam bahasa mereka, adalah rumah tradisional bangsa nomaden Kirghiz yang sangat portabel. Rangka yurt terbuat dari kayu, dibawa oleh para pedagang yang berkeliling dari negara-negara tetangga. Bagian atas dari yurt adalah sebuah lubang tempat masuknya sinar matahari. Pola desain lubang matahari ini sekarang merupakan bendera dan lambang negara dari Republik Kirgizstan. [...]

October 11, 2013 // 0 Comments

#1Pic1Day: Tidak Ada Burung Terbang | No Birds Fly (Little Pamir, Afghanistan, 2008)

No Birds Fly (Little Pamir, Afghanistan, 2008) Pamir, roof of the world, is a flat stony land in extreme elevation, surrounded by snow-capped mountains. Described by Marco Polo as, “The region is so lofty and cold, that you cannot even see any birds flying”. With snow may come at any time of the year, Pamir is extremely cold even in the middle of summer. Tidak Ada Burung Terbang (Pamir Kecil, Afghanistan, 2008) Pamir, dijuluki juga sebagai Atap Dunia, adalah tanah datar berbatu dan luas di ketinggian ekstrem, dikelilingi pegunungan bertudung salju. Marco Polo mendeskripsikan Pamir sebagai: “daerah yang sangat mulia dan dingin, engkau bahkan tidak bisa melihat satu pun burung yang terbang.” Dengan salju yang bisa datang kapan saja sepanjang tahun, Pamir teramat dingin bahkan di puncak musim [...]

October 10, 2013 // 1 Comment

#1Pic1Day: Perempuan dan Perhiasannya | Glamorous (Little Pamir, Afghanistan, 2008)

Glamorous (Little Pamir, Afghanistan, 2008) The Kyrgyz women plays important role in preserving Kyrgyz cultures by making traditional dresses and accessories. As there is no shops in Pamir, business have to be done in primitive barter system, so the women has responsibility to make clothes for the families. The materials are brought by traders from lower lands of Afghanistan. Perempuan dan Perhiasannya (Pamir Kecil, Afghanistan, 2008) Perempuan Kirgiz Afghan berperan penting dalam mempertahankan kebudayaan Kirgiz dengan membuat pakaian dan perhiasan tradisional. Di Pamir tidak ada toko sama sekali, dan perdagangan masih dilakukan dengan sistem barter yang masih primitif, sehingga para perempuan punya tanggung jawab untuk membuat pakaian bagi anggota keluarga mereka. Bahan-bahan pakaian ini dibawa ke pegunungan ini oleh para pedagang dari daerah Afghanistan yang lebih [...]

October 9, 2013 // 4 Comments

#1Pic1Day: Perjalanan Mematikan | Perilous Journey (Little Pamir, Afghanistan, 2008)

Perilous Journey (Little Pamir, Afghanistan, 2008) Pamir was supposed to be winter settlement of the Kyrgyz herdsmen, before the international borderline dividing Afghanistan with British India and Soviet Union was fixed. Once the border was enforced, the Kyrgyz were locked in Pamir for all seasons through the year. The road to Little Pamir, used to pass through some easier paths in today’s Tajikistan, now is 5-day journey on horseback through the perilous steep paths next to high cliffs. Perjalanan Mematikan (Pamir Kecil, Afghanistan, 2008) Pamir seharusnya adalah lokasi permukiman musim dingin dari masyarakat gembala Kirgiz, sebelum ditetapkannya perbatasan internasional yang memisahkan Afghanistan dari British India dan Uni Soviet. Setelah perbatasan diberlakukan, para nomaden Kirgiz terkunci di Pamir untuk keempat musim sepanjang tahun. Jalan menuju Pamir Kecil, dulunya adalah lintasan yang jauh lebih mudah di wilayah yang sekarang Tajikistan, tetapi kini berupa perjalanan mematikan lima hari berkuda melintasi jalan setapak yang curam di pinggir [...]

October 8, 2013 // 6 Comments

#1Pic1Day: Danau Agung | The Great Lake (Little Pamir, Afghanistan, 2008)

The Great Lake (Little Pamir, Afghanistan, 2008) Lake Chaqmaqtin, the second biggest lake in Afghan Pamir after Zor Kol or Lake Victoria, is the water source of Murghab River. The lake is 9 kilometer and 2 kilometer in size. The lake water provides life to several nomadic Kirghiz settlements nearby. The north bank of the water body is the winter settlements while the south bank is for summer period. Behind the snow-capped mountains at the north side is Tajikistan’s Gorno Badakhshan Autonomous Oblast region. Danau Agung (Pamir Kecil, Afghanistan, 2008) Danau Chaqmaqtin, danau terbesar kedua di Pamir Afghan setelah Danau Victoria (Zor Kol), adalah sumber air utama bagi Sungai Murghab yang mengaliri Pamir di sisi Afghanistan maupun Tajikistan. Danau ini panjangnya 9 kilometer dan lebarnya 2 kilometer. Air danau menghidupi sejumlah permukiman nomaden Kirgiz di sekitarnya. Sisi utara danau adalah daerah permukiman di musim dingin, sedangkan sisi selatan danau adalah untuk musim panas. Di belakang pegunungan bertudung salju di sebelah utara danau itu adalah wilayah Tajikistan. [...]

October 7, 2013 // 0 Comments

Exposure Magazine (2009): Menggapai Negeri Atap Dunia

EXPOSURE MAGAZINE (DECEMBER 2008) MENGGAPAI NEGERI ATAP DUNIA “Tempat ini demikian tingginya, hingga burung pun tak mampu terbang ke sana,” demikian Marco Polo melukiskan barisan pegunungan ini. Kabut menyelimuti taburan kemah putih bundar suku nomaden. Lenguhan keras yak bertanduk raksasa menggemakan keangkuhan gunung padas. Sungai deras mengalir, padang hijau membentang, danau biru kelam menyemburatkan misteri, rintik salju mengguyur perlahan. Anak-anak bermain bola ditelan awan. Sunyi. Damai. Mistis. Inilah musim panas di Pamir, atap dunia di ujung paling terpencil negeri Afghan, pada ketinggian 4.300 meter. Di sini salju bisa turun kapan saja. Sepanjang musim, sepanjang tahun. Manakala ibukota Kabul terbakar oleh mentari bulan Juli, saya di Pamir harus meringkuk di tepi perapian, menghirup segarnya susu yak bersama potongan daging kambing rebus sebesar lengan. Yang tinggal di alam yang tak bersahabat ini adalah bangsa Kirghiz, bangsa minoritas di Afghanistan, yang masih mempraktikkan cara hidup nomaden yang hampir punah di penjuru mana pun di muka bumi ini. Kaum prianya adalah penunggang kuda yang jempolan. Kaum perempuannya berpakaian merah menyala, lengkap dengan lusinan kalung, gelang, dan pernak-pernik yang berat. Yang masih gadis bertudung merah. Yang sudah menikah berkerudung putih, seperti salju yang menangkupi puncakpuncak gunung raksasa yang menjulang di sekeliling. Mereka hidup dalam roda [...]

December 13, 2008 // 1 Comment

Karakul – the Giant Death Lake

The giant death lake of Kara Kul. Karakul in Kyrgyz language means ‘black lake’. The lake itself is not black. In fact, this huge water body was deep blue when the sky is friendly, and turns to be grey when the sun chooses to hide behind the clouds. But the life is as dark as its name. There is no life at all in this huge lake. The lake has high concentration of salt. But despite of the salt, the lake also freezes in winter. The village next to the lake, bears the same name, is a Kyrgyz settlement with only one Tajik man inhabitant – a policeman. I was supposed to stay with the Tajik policeman, as it’s the only chance for me to communicate with my Persian knowledge. But when I arrived there, the Tajik man had left to Khorog. I stayed with a Kyrgyz family, an Acted-arranged guest house. They don’t speak Tajik, but the husband know little bit and can sing the national anthem proudly, “Zindabosh e vatan Tajikistan e azadi man (Long Live o Fatherland, My Free Tajikistan!)” He didn’t understand the meaning of the proud anthem though. Tildahan, the wife, is a young woman, [...]

November 2, 2006 // 0 Comments

Murghab – Life in Murghab

A morning greetings from Murghab Murgab (Murghab) was promising when it was built. It was a new Russian settlement built as frontier city of Pamir. The highway connecting the isolated mountains to the lowland towns was supposed to bring wealth to the nomadic community. Life had changed ever since. A town was built on the top of mountains. People were educated. Frontier military checkpoints were enforced. But how is life now, after Tajikistan gained independence from the USSR and civil war took place in the new country? The hope of the future had turned to be a bad fate. I had got a chance to know Gulnara, a 54 year old woman working as a primary school teacher in Murgab. Gulnara is the younger sister of Khalifa Yodgor from Langar. But the last time she saw him was 2 years ago. “It is too expensive to go there,” said her. Langar is not too far from Murgab. It is around 250 km only, but the public transport there is very rare and expensive. At present, Murghab-Langar cost 50 Somoni/pax. Gulnara’s salary is only 80 Somoni per month. She hardly manages to feed her family with that money, needless to say [...]

October 31, 2006 // 0 Comments

Murghab – The Dudkhoda’s Family

Boys of Murghab, in front of Tajik banner with the tricolor flag and coat-of-arms, of which important element is a snow mountain “Pamir will be better…. Pamir will be better….” – Dudkhoda My first impression of this 39 year old Tajik man was really not so good. this man tried to hug me and kiss me when I was sleeping next to him under the same blanket on the floor in the Kyrgyz restaurant in alichur packed by the Kyrgyz drivers. He also made me to pay his bills in the restaurant. But later I found that he had story worth to tell. He arranged for me a seat in the Kyrgyz truck, along with him, who returned to his home in Murghab. He was actually a passenger of the truck, not being able to pay the ride with money but offered the drivers a dinner in his hosue in Murghab. I came along with him, sitting along the way to Murghab (100 km) for free. Just near Murghab, there were two military checkpoint. The Kyrgyz drivers failed to do registration and they became easy target of the military man in the small dormitory. “Hey, brother, you should follow the [...]

October 29, 2006 // 0 Comments

Alichur – Kyrgyz Community

The steppe of Alichur Actually I planned to stay for some more days in Langar, but I have heard that the transport onward to Murghab would be very difficult to get. This was caused by the high oil price, so people couldnt afford anymore to travel, and instead of going to smaller and hopeless Murghab they opted to bigger Khorog. Suddenly, even when I was not prepared yet, there was a passenger jeep going to Murghab on 27th. The khalifa told me if I didnt take this car, the next transport might be a month after. I had no choice but to leave Langar. The road continued to east along the river bordering Afghanistan. Afghanistan on that side of the river had no more motorable road as it already entered the Big Pamir area. Sometimes caravans of Bactrian camels were visible along the dirt road on that side of the river, while we were travelling in a russian jeep. World differed more than a century in the two sides of the river, which was very shallow and narrow in winter. It should be very easy to cross the border illegally here. The camel caravan must be the Afghan (Pashtun) traders [...]

October 28, 2006 // 0 Comments

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