Mongolia

Titik Nol (66): Lumbini

Pagoda Mongolia di Lumbini. (AGUSTINUS WIBOWO) Setelah mendapatkan visa India, saya langsung menggeret Nefransjah – seorang kawan backpacker Indonesia, untuk bersama-sama berangkat menuju negeri Hindustan. Perbatasan India dan Nepal yang paling sering dilintasi adalah Sunauli, terletak tiga kilometer di selatan kota Bhairawa yang panas dan kering. Debu langsung memenuhi kerongkongan, begitu kami meloncat dari bus. Lurus ke selatan adalah India. Belok ke kanan adalah Lumbini – tempat kelahiran Budha. Saya menganjurkan untuk singgah dulu ke Lumbini, bermalam di kota suci itu, dan melanjutkan ke India esok hari. Langit sudah mulai gelap, kendaraan pun tak banyak. Masuk ke negeri yang sama sekali asing di tengah kegelapan malam tentunya bukan hal yang menyenangkan. Jalan berdebu ke arah Lumbini sunyi senyap, tak ada kendaraan ke arah desa kecil itu. Hanya turis dan peziarah Budha yang ke sana. Sebagian besar kendaraan umum dan truk barang hanya menuju ke India, negara tetangga raksasa yang menawarkan gelimang kemakmuran. Bulan purnama bersinar, menerangi malam yang berdebu. Saya, Nef, dan seorang backpacker Israel terguncang-guncang di bak truk melintasi jalan batu menuju Lumbini. Lumbini sungguh berbeda dengan kota Nepal kebanyakan. Biksu Budha dari berbagai negara ada di sini. Selamat datang di India. Orang Nepal dan India bebas keluar masuk [...]

August 25, 2014 // 0 Comments

#1Pic1Day: Biksu Muda | Young Monk (Tibet, 2005)

Young Monk (Tibet, 2005) A young monk of Yellow Hat Sect (Gelugpa Sect) is preparing for chanting session in Tashilhunpo Monastery in Shigatse, Tibet. The Tashilhunpo Monastery is the traditional seat of Panchen Lama, the second highest rank after the Dalai Lama in Gelugpa Tibetan Buddhism. Biksu Muda (Tibet, 2005) Seorang biksu muda dari Sekte Topi Kuning (Gelugpa) bersiap beribadah di kuil Tashilhunpo, di kota Shigatse. Kuil Tashilhunpo dalam tradisinya adalah tempat kedudukan Panchen Lama, orang kedua terpenting sesudah Dalai Lama dalam agama Buddha Tibet. [...]

February 17, 2014 // 3 Comments

#1Pic1Day: Awas Nabrak/Awas Ketabrak? | Curious Traffic Sign (Mongolia, 2009)

Curious Sign (Mongolia, 2009) What is intended by this curious traffic sign in Erdenet, Mongolia? That driving is forbidden, or playing football? Awas Nabrak/Awas Ketabrak? (Mongolia, 2009) Sebuah rambu lalu lintas yang membingungkan di Erdenet, Mongolia. Entah mana yang dilarang, mobil lewat atau main bola di jalan. [...]

February 14, 2014 // 2 Comments

#1Pic1Day: Antre Air | Line for Water (Mongolia, 2009)

Line for Water (Mongolia, 2009) The dwellers of the village of Tsengel in westernmost corner of Mongolia are queuing for water from a communal pipe in the middle of the village. This is a daily routine in most rural areas of Mongolia, due to unavailability of water system. Tsengel is last village in western Mongolia, neighboring with China and not far away from Kazakhstan, inhabited by predominantly Muslim Kazakh minority ethnic group. A big number of Kazakhs from Western Mongolia have migrated to Kazakhstan. Antre Air (Mongolia, 2009) Para penduduk dusun Tsengel di ujung paling barat Mongolia sedang mengantre air dari pipa komunal di tengah dusun. Ini adalah aktivitas harian di daerah pinggiran Mongolia, yang masih belum memiliki sistem pipa air. Tsengel adalah dusun paling ujung di Mongolia, berbatasan dengan China dan paling dekat dari Kazakhstan, dihuni oleh minoritas Kazakh yang beragama Islam. Sejumlah besar penduduk Kazakh di Mongolia Barat telah bermigrasi ke Kazakhstan. [...]

February 13, 2014 // 2 Comments

#1Pic1Day: A Kazakh Muslim Wedding (Mongolia, 2009)

Muslim Wedding (Mongolia, 2009) A Muslim Kazakh bride in westernmost corner of Mongolia is preparing for nikah, legalization of marriage held by Muslim religious leader. The Kazakhs are predominantly Muslim minority groups inhabiting western Mongolia, especially in the province of Bayan Olgii. Most of the wedding ceremonies here are held in Western (Russian) way, as it comes simpler and cheaper. In Kazakh wedding in Mongolia, vodka is always present. The father of this bride even held a cup of vodka in his hand, praying by reading Bismillah (in the name of Allah) to all guests. The mother of the bride then stood up, saying gratitude to all guests while wailing and weeping, and finished the vodka all at once. Pernikahan Muslim (Mongolia, 2009) Seorang pengantin Muslim Kazakh di ujung paling barat Mongolia sedang bersiap melangsungkan akad nikah. Pernikahan di sini lebih sering dilangsungkan dalam cara barat atau Rusia daripada cara tradisional (yang lebih rumit dan mahal). Dalam pernikahan Kazakh di Mongolia, vodka tidak boleh absen. Ayah pengantin perempuan ini bahkan sempat mengangkat secawan vodka, mengucap Bismillah irrahman irrahim, dan berterima kasih kepada semua tamu yang hadir. Disambung dengan ibunya yang berdiri, berterima kasih sampai menangis-nangis, dan menenggak habis satu cawan [...]

February 12, 2014 // 8 Comments

#1Pic1Day: Makan-Makan | Time to Eat (Mongolia, 2009)

Time to Eat (Mongolia, 2009) Kazakh people of Bayan Olgii, Western Mongolia are having lunch with a pile of sheep meat. The Kazakhs are predominantly Muslim minority groups inhabiting the westernmost part of Mongolia, especially in the province of Bayan Olgii. While eating, each of them bring a knife to cut the big pieces of meat, and they all eat from the very same big plate. Makan-Makan (Mongolia, 2009) Para minoritas Muslim Kazakh di provinsi Bayan Olgii, Mongolia Barat sedang menikmati makan siang berupa sebongkah daging domba besar. Masing-masing mereka membawa pisau, dan makan langsung dari piring besar yang sama. [...]

February 11, 2014 // 0 Comments

#1Pic1Day: Sang Pemburu Elang | The Eagle Hunter (Mongolia, 2009)

The Eagle Hunter (Mongolia, 2009) The Kazakhs are a minority groups inhabiting the westernmost part of Mongolia, especially in the province of Bayan Olgii. They are predominantly Muslims and still preserve the tradition of eagle hunting. The possession of eagle have been pride for the nomadic people since centuries ago, including Arabian sheikhs who are eager to pay any sum for the highest quality of eagles and falcons smuggled from Mongolia. As for the Mongolian Kazakh, eagles are used as weapon to hunt for foxes, and they got their eagles by kidnapping them from the wilderness. The fur hat wore by Kazakh hunters are made from fur of foxes’ legs they have hunted down. Once a year, Eagle Festival is held in the provincial capital of Olgii to preserve this almost-extinct ancient tradition. Sang Pemburu Elang (Mongolia, 2009) Bangsa Kazakh, minoritas Muslim yang mendiami wilayah bagian barat Mongolia (Provinsi Bayan Olgii) masih mempertahankan tradisi berburu dengan elang. Tradisi memelihara elang sudah berusia ratusan tahun dan merupakan kebanggaan bangsa-bangsa nomaden, termasuk para syeikh Arab yang sanggup membayar mahal untuk elang-elang dan rajawali berkualitas terbaik yang diselundupkan dari Mongolia. Bagi bangsa Kazakh Mongol, elang yang ditangkap dari alam liar adalah senjata mereka [...]

February 10, 2014 // 2 Comments

#1Pic1Day: Metropolis, Mongolian Style (2009)

Metropolis, Mongolian Style (2009) Khovd, with population of 35 thousand, is the biggest city in western Mongolia. Mongolia has land area about the same as that of Indonesia, with population of only 2.7 million, more than half of which live in the capital. What you see then is an almost empty country. Metropolitan ala Mongolia (2009) Khovd, dengan jumlah penduduk 35 ribu orang, adalah kota terbesar di Mongolia bagian barat. Luas Mongolia hampir seluas daratan Indonesia, dengan penduduk 2,7 juta jiwa, yang hampir separuhnya tinggal di ibukota, menyebabkan negeri raksasa ini begitu lengang dan lapang. [...]

February 5, 2014 // 0 Comments

#1Pic1Day: Beratnya Perjalanan | Arduous Journey (Mongolia, 2009)

Arduous Journey (Mongolia, 2009) Journeys in Mongolia are more than often arduous, requiring perfect physical condition. Most of the roads are unpaved, just a small track in the wilderness. You also have to consider the distance between destinations which are usually extremely far away, plus unforgiving weather and nature, plus hungry wolves and foxes from the forested hills. Bon voyage! Beratnya Perjalanan (Mongolia, 2009) Perjalanan di Mongolia selalu berat dan membutuhkan fisik yang prima. Hampir tidak ada jalan beraspal, mayoritas berupa jalan track seperti ini. Ditambah lagi jarak yang sangat berjauhan, cuaca yang tidak bersahabat, dan hewan liar seperti serigala yang mengincar di hutan-hutan. Selamat jalan! [...]

February 4, 2014 // 2 Comments

#1Pic1Day: Agama Tradisional | Traditional Religion (Mongolia, 2009)

Traditional Religion (Mongolia, 2009) Buddhism was the main religious tradition in Mongolia, affected every aspect of life of the nation, including culture, politics, history and economy. Tibetan Buddhism spread massively in Mongolia during the 16th century. Seventy years of communism in the country during the 20th century has led to decreasing impact of Buddhism tradition among the Mongols. In recent years, though, Mongolia has witnessed the revival of Buddhism. Temples have seen more visitors flocking, and there are more youngsters choose to be monks. The government has decreed Buddhism as “traditional” religion. Recently, Buddhist leaders in the country have been struggling hard to survive amidst aggressive Christianization programs by foreign missionaries. Agama Tradisional (2009) Agama Buddha pernah menjadi tradisi religius utama di Mongolia, memengaruhi setiap aspek kehidupan di negeri itu, termasuk kultur, politik, dan religius. Penyebaran agama Buddha Tibet secara massal di Mongolia terjadi pada abad ke-16, dan sempat meredup selama 70 tahun komunisme di negeri itu pada abad ke-20. Dalam beberapa tahun belakangan, Mongolia mengalami kebangkitan kembali agama Buddha, ketika kuil-kuil kembali ramai, dan semakin banyak generasi muda yang menjadi biksu. Buddhisme ditetapkan pemerintah sebagai agama “tradisional”. Belakangan ini, organisasi dan pemuka Buddhis di negara itu harus berjuang keras [...]

February 3, 2014 // 4 Comments

#1Pic1Day: Elang Emas | Golden Eagle (Olgii, Mongolia, 2009)

Golden Eagle (Olgii, Mongolia, 2009) The eagle hunters prefer to use female eagles as they are bigger and more aggressive compared to their male partners. The best hunting eagles have to be kidnapped from the wilderness, not those raised in homes. Elang Emas (Olgii, Mongolia, 2009) Para pemburu elang biasanya lebih menyukai elang betina karena ukurannya yang lebih besar dan sifatnya yang lebih agresif dibandingkan pejantannya. Elang pemburu yang terbaik adalah yang “diculik” langsung dari alam liar, bukan yang dipelihara di rumah. [...]

November 1, 2013 // 4 Comments

#1Pic1Day: Pemburu Elang | The Eagle Hunters (Olgii, Mongolia, 2009)

The Eagle Hunters (Olgii, Mongolia, 2009) The tradition of eagle hunting (burkutchu) is not about hunting eagles, but using eagle as their weapon when hunting in wilderness. Eagle hunting is regarded as unique tradition of the Kazakh (and also Kyrgyz) in Central Asia, but actually is better preserved in western Mongolia, where environment is comparatively less changed and the people is relatively more isolated to the outside world. Pemburu Elang (Olgii, Mongolia, 2009) Tradisi berburu elang (burkutchu) bukanlah untuk memburu elang, melainkan menggunakan elang sebagai senjata untuk berburu di alam liar. Berburu elang dianggap sebagai tradisi khas bangsa Kazakh (dan juga Kirgiz) di Asia Tengah, tetapi sebenarnya tradisi ini justru lebih terpelihara di Mongolia Barat, di mana alamnya masih relatif tidak terjamah, dan orang-orangnya relatif terisolasi dari dunia luar. [...]

October 31, 2013 // 0 Comments

#1Pic1Day: Parade Bangsa | Parade of Nation (Olgii, Mongolia, 2009)

Parade of Nation (Olgii, Mongolia, 2009) The western province of Bayan Olgii in Mongolia is dominated by the Muslim Kazakh minority. They still preserve distinctive culture and are proud of their strong identity among the Mongolian community. Parade Bangsa (Olgii, Mongolia, 2009) Provinsi Bayan Olgii di Mongolia Barat didominasi bangsa minoritas Muslim Kazakh. Mereka masih mempertahankan kebudayaan khas dan identitas yang kuat di tengah masyarakat Mongol. [...]

October 30, 2013 // 3 Comments

#1Pic1Day: Membeku | Freezing (Tsagaan Nuur, Mongolia, 2009)

Freezing (Tsagaan Nuur, Mongolia, 2009) Mongolia is identical with harsh winter. But once in several years, the people suffer from “extremely harsh winter”, known as zud, in which temperature can drop down below minus 60 Centigrade and animals (also people) are dying because of the extreme condition. Membeku (Tsagaan Nuur, Mongolia, 2009) Mongolia identik dengan musim dingin yang tidak bersahabat. Walaupun demikian, setiap beberapa tahun sekali, orang Mongolia masih harus mengalami “musim dingin ekstrem” yang jauh lebih ganas. Dikenal sebagai zud, musim ini adalah saat di mana suhu bisa turun hingga di bawah -60 derajat Celcius yang menyebabkan kematian hewan-hewan ternak (juga manusia) dalam jumlah besar. [...]

October 29, 2013 // 3 Comments

#1Pic1Day: Kekosongan Sempurna | Total Emptiness (Khovd, Mongolia, 2009)

Total Emptiness (Khovd, Mongolia, 2009) With land area not so much different with Indonesia, Mongolia is inhabited by not more than 3 million people (compared to 240 million in Indonesia). Vast and empty is the dominant impression of Mongolian pastureland. Kekosongan Sempurna (Khovd, Mongolia, 2009) Dengan luas area yang tidak jauh berbeda dengan Indonesia, Mongolia hanya dihuni tidak lebih dari 3 juta jiwa (bandingkan dengan 240 juta penduduk Indonesia). Luas dan kosong adalah impresi dominan dari padang rumput Mongolia. [...]

October 28, 2013 // 3 Comments

#1Pic1Day: Hampir Menghilang | Almost Disappear (Darkhad, Mongolia, 2009)

Almost Disappear (Darkhad, Mongolia, 2009) For thousands of years, the reindeer herders have roamed the taiga of northern Mongolia—a stretch of beautiful wilderness of mountains, taiga forest, and ice at the country’s border with Siberia. Researchers say, Mongolia’s last nomadic reindeer people could disappear soon along with natural destruction and climate change. Hampir Menghilang (Darkhad, Mongolia, 2009) Selama ribuan tahun, para penggembala rusa salju telah menjelajah hutan-hutan taiga di Mongolia utara, yang merupakan barisan gunung liar yang indah berselimutkan es di daerah perbatasan dengan Siberia. Menurut para ahli, para penggembala rusa salju ini adalah yang terakhir di Mongolia dan tradisi ini bisa hilang sama sekali karena perusakan alam dan perubahan iklim. [...]

October 25, 2013 // 1 Comment

#1Pic1Day: Bocah dan Rusa Salju | Reindeer Boy (Darkhad, Mongolia, 2009)

Reindeer Boy (Darkhad, Mongolia, 2009) In most herding communities, usually it’s the duty of young boys to take care flocks of cows and sheep, and known as “cowboys”. But for the reindeer herding community of Tsaatan people living in northern taiga of Mongolia, it’s not the ordinary flocks they have to take care of, but the white and mystical reindeers. Bocah dan Rusa Salju (Darkhad, Mongolia, 2009) Dalam kebanyakan masyarakat penggembala, biasanya sudah menjadi kewajiban anak lelaki untuk menjaga kawanan sapi dan kambing, sehingga dikenal istilah koboi. Tetapi bagi masyarakat Tsaatan yang merupakan penggembala rusa salju di hutan taiga di Mongolia utara, bocah-bocah ini bukan menjaga hewan ternak biasa, melainkan rusa salju putih dan mistis yang konon merupakan kendaraan Sinterklas itu. [...]

October 24, 2013 // 4 Comments

#1Pic1Day: Dukun | Shamanism (Darkhad, Mongolia, 2009)

Shamanism (Darkhad, Mongolia, 2009) The Tsaatan people living in the northern taiga of Mongolia are known as among the most powerful shamans in the country. Shamanism has rooted in Mongolian tradition far before the arrival of religions, and is still significant in the people’s life until today. Dukun (Darkhad, Mongolia, 2009) Bangsa Tsaatan yang tinggal di hutan-hutan taiga di Mongolia utara dikenal sebagai dukun terkuat di negara itu. Shamanisme, atau perdukunan, telah mengakar kuat dalam tradisi bangsa Mongol jauh sebelum datangnya agama-agama, dan masih punya peran signifikan dalam kehidupan masyarakat Mongol hingga hari ini. [...]

October 23, 2013 // 1 Comment

#1Pic1Day: Bahkan Sinterklas pun Pakai Hape | Even Santa Has Mobile (Darkhad, Mongolia, 2009)

Even Santa Has Mobile (Darkhad, Mongolia, 2009) The taiga in northernmost Mongolia is inhabited by the Tsaatan people, famous for being the only reindeer breeding people in the world. They live in northern isolated mountains bordering with Russia, but modern technology has starts to show its existence. Blank CD hung on the window is believed to gather strong mobile signal, at least enough to say hello and send text message. Bahkan Sinterklas pun Pakai Hape (Darkhad, Mongolia, 2009) Daerah hutan taiga di ujung paling utara Mongolia dihuni oleh bangsa Tsaatan, yang terkenal sebagai satu-satunya bangsa penggembala rusa salju di dunia. Mereka tinggal di pegunungan terpencil yang berbatasan dengan Rusia. Namun teknologi modern sudah mulai menunjukkan diri di sini. CD yang digantung di jendela dipercaya dapat memperkuat sinyal telepon genggam, setidaknya cukup untuk mengucap halo dan berkirim SMS. [...]

October 22, 2013 // 0 Comments

#1Pic1Day: Musim Pindahan | Moving Season (Khovsgol, Mongolia, 2009)

Moving Season (Khovsgol, Mongolia, 2009) As winter is not so far away, river streams are drying and grass in pastureland is yellowing, the Mongolian nomads start to pack their yurt and animals to move to their winter encampment. The nomadism is still way of life for many Mongolians, moving out is part of their nomadic routine. Musim Pindahan (Khovsgol, Mongolia, 2009) Musim dingin sudah menjelang, sungai-sungai pun mulai mengering dan rerumputan di padang sudah menguning. Para penggembala nomaden Mongolia sudah mulai mengemas kemah dan mengumpulkan semua ternak mereka untuk berpindah ke tempat permukiman musim dingin. Nomadisme masih merupakan cara hidup utama bagi kebanyakan orang Mongolia, dan berpindah adalah bagian dari rutinitas bangsa nomaden. [...]

October 21, 2013 // 5 Comments

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